Parete del Nivolet

Overview

Geographical classification: Western Alps > Graie Alps > Gran Paradiso Group > Gran Paradiso Group Northern sector > Parete del Nivolet

Parete del Nivolet

The Parete del Nivolet (Nivolet Wall) is an interesting granite rock structure located at the head of the Valsavarenche. It is the highest valley wall in the area and it can be seen on the right (orographic left of the valley) once you reach the end of the Valsavarenche road just before reaching the Pont car park (where the road ends). It is not a very flashy wall, located on the right of a waterfall. On the wall there are some fine routes that offer a pleasant and interesting climb on a nice rough granite. 

Getting There

Road access

From the A5 motorway, exit Aosta-Ovest, direction Villeneuve and take the road to Valsavarenche. Reach the main village Degioz and then continue towards Pont. Before the bottleneck between the "rascard" (typical wooden buildings) and just before reaching the Pont large parking area, leave the main road and turn right onto a road, which is the old Strada del Nivolet, (signpost Palestra di Arrampicata, path 4A). Follow it for about 150 m. up to a barrier that prevents the further transit of vehicles. Leave the car in a small parking lot near the barrier. Please don't park in the meadows!

Walking approach

Continue shortly walking on the road (about 100 meters), then leave it and take a small path that branches off from the road in the left direction towards the stream just before a bend and enters the larch forest. Continue on the obvious and frequently signposted path with cairns for about 20 minutes, reaching a not very obvious crossroads marked with a cairn. Here  leave the main path that turns to the right (directed to the sport sector "Falesia Belvedere di Fosse") and turn left towards a large scree. Cross the scree in the direction of the waterfall and at the end go up a slope of grass and rocks until you reach the base of the wall (45 minutes from the parking).  

Route "Di fronte al Paradiso"

Di fronte al Paradiso

Difficulty: 5c max (French scale)
Climbing length: 200 m
Exposure: S 
Equipment: bolts

A pleasant climb up slabs and little walls. The route starts from the lowest point of the wall, under a line of roofs and black stripes, near 2 old pitons (cairn) and climbs immediately to the right of a vertical line starting from the roofs.

L1 - Climb up an easy ramp to the left on the left of the bolts, pass a short wall, then oblique right on a slab to the belay, 4c, 25 m
L2 - Oblique to the right ignoring the bolts that go straight up and climb a compact slab, overcome an overhang and reach the belay, 5c, 28 m
L3 - Ignore the bolts that go straight up and obliquely to the right on the slab towards a large vein of white quartz, overcome another overhang and reach a comfortable stop on the ledge, 5b, 27 m
L4 - Climb the well-worked vertical pillar, 5a, 25m
L5 - Continue directly along the vertical wall and reach the belay at a broken corner, 5c, 30 m
L6 - Traverse to the left to climb the dihedral, then for a short slab
and easy jumps and grass to reach a comfortable stop on the grassy ledge, 4a, 20 m. Shared belay with the "Via del Barba".
L7 - Climb to the right the compact and superb slab with small holds, then exit at the top, 5a, 25 m. Immediately on the right there is the fixed anchor for abseiling along the Via del Barba

Descent: abseiling the route "Via del Barba"

Route 

Via del Barba

Difficulty: 5c max (French scale)
Climbing length: 200 m
Exposure: South 
Equipment: bolts

Another pleasant climb up slabs and little walls.The route starts just few meters to the right of the previous route, near an old piton with a faded rope sling. Also visible from below a bolt with a rope sling.

L1 - Go up a slab slightly oblique left, then exit right at the belay 4a, 25 m
L2 - Beautiful little walls, then to the right to reach the belay 5a, 25 m
L3 - Climb to the right on inclined slabs, cross a ledge and pass a vertical wall on the left of the bolts. Continue to the right up to a ledge, 5b, 40 m
L4 - Cross the ledge to the right, then climb a vertical wall, 5b 25 m
L5 - Climb vertically overcoming a difficult move to the right, then return to the left, 5c, 30 m
L6 - Climb a little wall, move left and enter a short chimney, then traverse to the left up to a grassy terrace, 4c, 20 m. Shared belay with "Di fronte al Paradiso".
L7 - Climb to the right a beautiful slab with small holds, then exit at the top, 5a, 25 m

Descent: abseiling the route

Summit views

Red Tape

No fees no permits required. We are inside Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, established in 1922, one of most important National Parks in Italy, therefore we must take care of nature as usual within the boundaries of all the natural parks. Free camping is not allowed and fires are strictly forbidden. The whole fauna and flora are protected. Don’t disturb fauna and other mountaineering and hikers’ peacefulness with every kind of noise.

When to Climb

Best season goes from June to September

Camping and other accomodations

An equipped campsite and other possibilities of accomodation in Valsavarenche. 

Meteo

Meteo Regione Valle d'Aosta

Guidebooks and maps

"Il Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso" - IGC 3 1:50.000
“Gran Paradiso - La Grivola - Cogne” – IGC 101 1:25.000