Ocshapalca

Overview

Ocshapalca is a ridge of peaks in the Chinchey Massif in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. All it's routes are quite hard and this mountain is not often climbed.
 

The South West Face of this broad and heavily fluted peak is now becoming a classic venue for steep ice climbing, especially with climbers now content to complete their route to the summit ridge and rappel rather than attempt to traverse a difficult corniced crest to one of the summits. There is still much scope for new routes on this face, though one line is very similar to the next.
 

Getting There

 

Lima’s Aeropuerto Internacional Jorge Chavez is located in suburban Callao (about 12 km west of downtown). Taxis can be taken inside the airport’s terminal, but it’s more recommendable to take those cabs outside the pedestrian gate which charge less for a ride downtown or to any bus station than those parked inside the terminal.

Every bus company runs its own office and station in Lima. It’s recommendable to take those that cluster around Javier Prado Este in La Victoria neighborhood. Some of these companies are: Cruz Del Sur, Tepsa and Civa. It’ll take you about 8 hours to get from Lima to Huaraz.

Once in Huaraz, you can take a taxi called “colectivo” (USD, 1,00 / 45 min) which you share it with other people. It can take you up to the village of Marian from where you can start a 5-hour-hike through Quebrada Llaca and up to the refuge located at Laguna Llaca area (4,400 m / 14,432 ft). In some places the road is hardly drivable, narrow and bumpy.

Llupa is the last village you can get to with public transportation. It takes two extra hours to hike from Llupa to the Llaca Valley.

In Huaraz, combis (vans) to Llupa can be taken at Paradero de PITEC. Take combi N° 15.

“Colectivos” (shared taxis) can take you to Llupa for USD. 0,75 (2,00 soles)

Another option is taking a taxi up to the Ruins of Huilcahuain. Here the road is in better shape all the way up to Laguna Llaca. Expect to pay around USD. 20,00 one way. If you know already how many days you will stay, you can arrange to be picked up again with your driver. (Usually the next day in the evening or two days later in the morning).

Private van transportation called “combi” or “sprinter” can be arranged in Huaraz for about USD. 160,00 (500 soles) RT.

Red Tape

 
No Permits, no summit fees !

Only a few pennies 'road' toll at the entrance of the valley ;-)

When To Climb

The best season to climb is from mid-June till late July and early August.

In an average year you can probably start as early as May and continue until the beginning of September, but the rainy season will usually drop in mid-September.

Camping

 

Camping is not a problem. There’s no camping restrictions. Set your tent wherever you want.
These are the best two options:


1. Quebrada Llaca End of the Road. There’s a nice flat area thee with some broken huts, where you will find level surface for your tents. The sun rays will warm this place only for a couple hours during the day.


2. Refugio Guias de Montana del Peru. You can stay overnight here (if there’s a refuge care taker available). If not, there’s plenty of camping spots around with good sources of clean water. It’ll take you a bit longer to approach to the trailhead (end of the road) and glacier from here, though.

Routes

The wall falls 650m from the East (Main) Summit (1)
and 500m from the untrodden West Top (2).

 

Current routes on this face are:

(A) Pisamierdas (Amils/Casas/Obregon/Sunyer, 1989).
(B) South Face Direct (Cambon/Francou/Grassi, 1982).
(C) South Face-Original Route (Blatherwick/Richey, 1979).
(D) Alternative Start (Variante Peruana).
(E) Alquimia (no information).
(F) Swiss-Canadian Route (Balmat/Banderet/Ouellet, 1982).
(G) Rusula de Yungay (Allignol/Soulier, 1998).
(H) The incompleted line of Preso Politico (Amat/Lopez/Lopez, 1994).
(I) The incompleted line of Christian Pichon (Roux/Scart/Vigne, 1995).
(J) Ludix-El Gato Blanco (Babic/Hieb/Zver/Zorko, 1996)
(K) Intsumisioa (Fonseca/Santesteban, 1995).

The latest addition comes from the French pair, François Allignol and
Christophe Soulier, who completed the 500m Rusula de Yungay (ED1) to the
summit ridge a little right of both the West Top and the 1995 uncompleted
French route, Christian Pichon. This brings the total number of routes on
the face to 11 (end of 1999).

Miscellaneous Info

Guide Books:

- Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, by David M. Sharman
- Escaladas en los Andes, Juanjo Tome. Desnivel (1,999).
- The Andes, A guide for Climbers, John Biggar. Andes (2,005).
- Yurak Janka. Guide to the Peruvian Andes, John F. Ricker (1,977).

Maps:

- Available at Casa de Guias de Montana del Peru. Huaraz.
- Cordillera Blanca tourist Map. Editorial Lima 2,000.

Thank You!

Special thanks to Evaq (Peru) for the valuable information and updates and to UlrichPrinz (original) creator of this page.

External Links

• High Mountian Magazine Article
  Where much of the Info on this page came from
  

Images

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