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Capitol Peak from the Southwest
Photo by SP member Kane
Capitol Peak is regarded by many that climb it as Colorado's hardest fourteener. The mountain demands much of those who climb it. Experience is a plus, but determination and tenacity increase one's chances at success, not to mention very good weather. Any approach is long, the climb itself is equally long over countless rock obstacles above considerable exposure. Even when considering the many challenges Capitol Peak presents, it is without a doubt one of Colorado's most rewarding climbs.
Capitol Peak is located in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness Area and is one of those peaks that says "Alpine Climbing" as soon as you lay eyes on it. This peak is one of the most recognized from the summit of neighboring peaks due in part to the classic profile. Located in the heart of the Maroon Bells-Snomass Wilderness area this majestic peak is hidden from anyone not willing to get off the road. Despite the fact that Capitol is part of the Elk Range, it has suprisingly good rock quality. This good rock allows for some of Colorado's best alpine rock climbs.
The easiest route, known as the Northeast Ridge aka "The Knife Edge", is still a class 4 scramble with more than enough exposure. It is however a very well traveled route that can be approached from three distinct trailheads. The Capitol Creek route has been the considered standard approach. A variation of the route growing in popularity is The Capitol Creek & Ditch Variation. A longer, more primitive alternative is an approach from Pierre Lakes Basin which involves many hours of scrambling on Class 3 & 4 terrain, or an approach from Moon Lakes is often used. A VERY long (and thus not popular) option from Avalanche Creek is a possibility, but this route is more suited to horses and backpacking outings. All routes however traverse the infamous Knife Edge.
The massive 1,300 foot North Face offers several technical rock routes with the most popular being the Northwest Ridge Buttress at 5.7. Do not be misled by the rating because this is still a very serious undertaking.
All routes on this mountain pose a considerable challenge to even the most experienced climbers, particularly in bad weather. Please note the mountain has been the scene of many rescues and recoveries for the Aspen Search and Rescue. Although rewarding and spectacular, Capitol is also one of Colorado's deadliest mountains.
Capitol Peak as seen from the summit of Mount Daly Photo by Erin Burr
Getting There & Trailhead OptionsCapitol Peak as seen from the standard trailhead in the fall
Photo by blind siblime
There are two main trailheads for climbing Capitol Peak. The Capitol Creek Trailhead which provides the easiest access is the most popular. From Glenwood Springs, Colorado follow US 82 for 28 miles south to the town of Old Snowmass (nothing to do with Snowmass Ski Resort) and take a right onto Snowmass Creek Road. Follow this road for 1.7 miles and turn right at the T intersection onto Capitol Creek Road. Stay left at 1.9 and at 3.2 miles. Then stay right at 4.7 and 5.9 miles where the road turns to dirt just beyond. Pass the cattle guard taking the narrower left road (a multiuse sign mars this spot) and continue to the trailhead at 9.5 miles. To be on the safe side, 4WD is recommended beyond the cattle guard. In 2007, an overturned Hinda Civic adorned the side of the road. Both the Capitol Creek and Capitol Ditch routes start from this trailhead.
The West Snowmass Creek Trailhead which is a bit more rugged and less traveled, can be used as an alternative approach for the standard Northeast Ridge route. To reach this trailhead follow the directions above to the town of Old Snowmass and turn right onto Snowmass Creek Road. Follow this road for 1.7 miles and take a left at the T intersection. Follow this road to mile 10.9 to another intersection and take a right. The obscure trailhead is at mile 11.3.
PurpleMountainNear adds "When driving to the Capitol Creek Trailhead, be sure you have a 4WD vehicle to handle to road. The Roach Guide says "very rough road," but this does not give the nastiness of the road enough credit. If you feel like you've taken a wrong turn, that you're on private property, or if the mileage is going over what it says-- don't worry, the trailhead is right around the corner! And it's a beautiful sight! "
Northeast Ridge aka The Knife Ridge RT From the Capitol Creek TH: 17 miles 5,800 feet of gain
RT From the West Snowmass Creek TH: 16 miles 5,800 feet of gain
Route Options Overview
Looking along the Northeast Ridge to Point K2 from Capitol Peak
Capitol Lake on the left, Pierre Lake (one of several) on the right, both long approach options
Photo by SP member Kane
The are two current popular route options on Capitol Peak. One route can be scrambled, the other is a technical route. The most popular and preferred route is the standard NE Ridge Route known as the Knife Edge. The Northwest Buttress route is a technical climbing route on mostly good rock. A rarely done long and difficult ridge traverse between Capitol and Snowmass to the south offers a challenging third possibility, but no RECENT climbs have been documented. Route options discussed here are reached via the two trailheads detailed above, and each offer a number of variations noted below.
Standard NE Ridge Route-The Knife Edge
The photos below illustrate conditions encountered on the standard route of Capitol Peak in a variety of conditions.
Northwest Buttress
The following photos illustrate climbing conditions on the Northwest Buttress, a technical route. See the route description (upper left hand margin) for details.
Northeast Ridge Direct
The following photos illustrate conditions encountered when doing the NE Ridge Route Direct, which means staying on the ridge all the way to Capitol's summit. See the route description (upper left hand margin) for details.
Pierre Lakes Basin
Class 3 and 4 climbing, backpacking and camping outing, 18 miles round trip from Snowmass Creek trailhead. The following photos illustrate the approach via Snowmass Creek and Piere Lakes Basin.
MAPS
Red TapeCurrently there are no fees required to climb Capitol Peak. The only regulations are those of a Wilderness Area. There is a FREE self registration at the trailhead. See the Wilderness Permit section below for details.
Leave no trace so that others have the same great experience.
Current information regarding the Wilderness area can be found on the official National Forest Service website.
The NFS Ranger Station can also be reached by the following:
Aspen Ranger District 806 West Halam Aspen, CO 81611
Phone: (970)925-3445 Fax:(970)925-5277.
Wilderness Permit InfoThere is a new REQUIRED, self-issue permit for use of the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness area. The old system was a voluntary permit, while the new one is REQUIRED. The Forest Service is trying to get better numbers on the use of certain high traffic areas. One permit is required for each group and must be carried by one member at all times. The self-registration will be a the Trailhead. You must provide group size, destination and all the other typical information. Currently there are no limits on the number of permits for each area. Regular local users can contact there Forest Service office for a monthly pass to eliminate having to sign in for each visit. The Wilderness Regulations are handily located on the pack of the permit portion that must be carried with you. So NO more "no one told me I can't camp next to the stream." Following is the Forest Service contact info for the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness Area: Martha Maran (970) 925-3445 mmoran@fs.fed.us
Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness Area
Snowmass Mountain (far left) and Capitol Peak (almost far right) from primitive and pristine Pierre Lakes Basin, Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness
Photo by SP member Kane
The Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness Area is Colorado's fourth largest designated wilderness area and emcompasses some of the most beautiful and rugged country that Colorado has to offer. This area is home to 6 of Colorado's beloved 14'ers, Capitol Peak, Snowmass Mountain, South Maroon Peak, Pyramid Peak, Castle Peak and North Maroon Peak.
Acres: 181,117 Elevations: 7500ft to 14,265ft Miles of Trail: 100
Please apply wilderness protocols when visiting this beautiful area, which remains the same as it has always been thanks to wilderness designation.
When To Climb  Climbing out of Pierre Lakes Basin
Summer and early fall are the best times to climb Capitol Peak. As the approaches from both trailheads are 16 to 18 miles round trip with over 5,500 vertical feet of gain, one should always start early or use a high camp to avoid the afternoon thunderstorms.
Either approach would be very long and difficult in the winter. The standard route becomes a technical undertaking when covered in snow.
Once on the peak there is no shelter and no quick descent.
Camping
There are no fees for using either trailhead and most all the camping is done at primitive sites within the wilderness area. Designated camping spots have been designed at Capitol Lake to minimize impact at this most popular option.
Please remember that you are in a wilderness area and try to make as little impact as possible.
Mountain Conditions  Climbing on the East Face
Expect lots of solid rock, but be wary that plenty of loose rock exists. These conditions, along with dramatic exposure, are sustained for most of you day on the mountain. These conditions can become perilous if wet or icy and in bad weather, the mountain is a certified nightmare. Do not climb or abandon your attempt if bad weather is moving in.
Aspen NOAA Forecast
White River National Forest Information
Colorado Avalanche Information & Reporting
Wilderness StatisticsSpecial Considerations & Commendation
There is now a log bridge with a makeshift handrail suspended some 10' above Snowmass Creek, approximately 3 miles up the Snowmass Creek Trail from the trailhead. However, it is off the main trail in the trees and difficult to spot. A recent attempt to locate this crossing by SP members failed.
The crossings on Capitol Creek can be tricky. Good traction and balance are essential for crossing the creek. A crossing over deep water is encountered after dropping the 400 feet from the trailhead on the Capitol Creek trail. The crossing on the Capitol Ditch Route from the cow pasture to the Capitol Creek trail, about three miles up the drainage, can be tricky, especially in high water.
On K2, the Knife Edge and points beyond, some people will prefer the safety of a belay on the standard route. Much discussion and debate continues over this controversial subject. Please keep in mind that a roped party may cause bottlenecks and jam the route up on busy weekends. Some folks forgo the rope due to the possibility of the rope causing potentially dangerous rockfall. If you plan to use rope, practice with your group before proceeding with the intent on being as efficient as possible while using the rope on the route.
SPECIAL THANKS
Special thanks to Chris Fisher, the original submitter and maintainer of this page since SP's earliest days. He brought Capitol Peak to SummitPost in the web site's infancy and watched over the page for five years. Thanks Chris for your efforts in presenting Capitol Peak in responsible fashion to the rest of the world!
--AJ
External Links Successful climbs of Capitol Peak by SP Members Images
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Elk Mountains
