Successful Climb For All On 1st Attempt--

Successful Climb For All On 1st Attempt--

Page Type Page Type: Trip Report
Location Lat/Lon: 19.18330°N / 98.6333°W
Date Date Climbed/Hiked: Dec 19, 2005
Stayed first night @ Buena Vista and trekked to East side of ridge from La Joya the next day, elevation 800 ft. above La Joya. I had a difficult time and was the last to arrive at camp site. Realized I had gone the entire day with water only! No energy source. Loaded up hydration packs with Gatorade for the next day. Good water source in small mountain creek however windy and cold!. Left early next morning for Republica de Chile Hut met several climbers coming off the mountain, some successful, some not. Much easier day for me and was the first to arrive at the Hut. Arrived late afternoon and found 20+ students from Mexico City that had spent the weekend on Izta. Had a great time visiting with them. I took their group photo and I am waiting for an e-mail address to send it to them. They left us their excess water, which was appreciated. However needed more, (Guide had left 4 gal. hidden earlier in the week at La Joya but we never went over the ridge to get it on the way up). Hopefully someone in need will find it. Water was available down the draw to the West, below the Hut. Our head guide, Matt Millar hiked down to the source and brought water back for all. He worked very hard getting everone to this point. I had a good night in the Hut with no altitude complications. Awoke @ 4:30 and left for the summit. Guides from Oregon, (Matt Millar and Robert Prentice) carried gear and water for two climbers in our group that were having a difficult time. Beautiful sunrise and not very windy. Met 3 climbers at old Hut on the Knees. They were turning back. Surprised not to see more snow but put on crampons to cross the glacier. All 6 of us reached the summit at 10:37a.m. I left my Livestrong wrist band that I wore at the suggestion of my son on the cross @ summit. It was an emotional day since I have had the desire to reach a summit for many years, and may not do again. Guides worked hard getting all to the summit. We rested for 30 min. Weather was beginning to change so began decent. Reached Old Hut and weather was rapidly changing. Decended down scree field NW of Hut. Loaded gear stored at the Hut and continued decent. Matt left the Hut first to go ahead to La Joya to connect with the van he had set up to pick us up for transport off the mountain. I caught up with him at the saddle into the final ascent to La Joya. He waited for the rest and I continued ahead. I reached La Joya @ 4:00. 45 minutes later the last of our group arrived and we all went to Amecameca for the night and back to Oregon the next day. Success attributed to good hydration- "alot of water consumption" and excellent acclimitization plan by Matt.

Comments

No comments posted yet.