Spire Rock

Overview

Jutting up from the end of the north ridge on Triangulation Peak in the central Oregon Cascades is a prominent pillar called Spire Rock. The distinctive spire is seen from the trail easily and offers some decent (for adventure climbing standards) and easy rock climbing. The standard route climbs up from a saddle on the ridge about 120-150 feet on the southeast corner. Excellent views from Hood to the Jefferson including the Bull of the Woods Wilderness (the Three Sisters are hidden behind Triangulation Peak's summit).

This area of Oregon has many such pillars and pinnacles, all eroded remnants of the Old Cascades. (See Radek's Oregon Pinnacles page for others nearby.) The rock quality is not so good as you would imagine. Most of it is crumbly basalt covered with lichen and moss although the route up Spire is somewhat clean. Test every hand and foothold though. The cracks are questionable as to whether they will hold your fall or shatter and splinter under any load. Fortunately, at least here, the climbing is easy and the standard route on this rock has nice large holds and ledges.

There is not much information out there on Spire Rock. The adventure climbing section of Portland Rock Climbs has exactly two sentences on it ("Ascend the SE corner on 5th class rock. Two rope rappel recommended." --Brilliant, eh?). Even the elevation is just a guess as I couldn't find anything definitive on it. Hope this page helps out as it is an impressive looking piece of rock. There is no summit register so I am not sure how many climb this one. The rap rock from the summit had 3 or 4 faded and brittle ties of webbing and even one rapped piece of old tattered rope. Didn't look like much in the way of visitors (and yes, we placed new webbing) which seemed surprising for such a prominent pillar.

Getting There

From the I-5 corridor, take Highway 22 (Santiam Highway) east from Salem just over 56 miles to McCoy Creek Road (just barely east of the town of Idanha between mileposts 56 and 57). Turn left (north) onto McCoy Creek Road (Road 2233) and take it about 7.75 miles (it will change to gravel before then) to a junction with a small winter sports building off to the right. Turn right at this junction onto Road 635 which will take to to the trailhead in 1.3 miles at just over 4700 feet.

If you are coming from the east (Bend), take Highway 22 to the same point between mileposts 56 and 57 and proceed as above.

Red Tape

Northwest Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead. Self-issued and free Wilderness Permits also required to complete and take with you.

Camping

Camping spots abound (and some even sleep in Boca Cave on the east side of Trianglulation Peak). The area is frequented by hunters during season. There are campsites at the summit of Triangulation as well. Follow general camping rules posted at the trailhead - no fees to camp.

Mountain Conditions

Detroit Ranger District
503-854-3366

Images

View Spire Rock Image Gallery - 15 Images