Alpha SV

When I was soliciting advice on what jacket to buy, two of my climbing partners (who have yet to ever meet each other in person) raved and raved about this jacket unbeknownst to one another. It's very lightweight and compact. What really sets it apart, is its zipper technology which gives you a proper seal without extra bulky flaps & velcro to cover the zipper up. It's very smooth & sleek. The adjustable hood is designed so that a helmet can be worn underneath. It's got a handy pocket in the upper left sleeve for lip balm or kleenex. It's designed for good range of motion and ventilation while wearing a backpack. I've yet to really put it to the durability test, but from what I've been told and read, it is the best mountaineering jacket on the market. There are now four of us in my climbing circles who have this jacket (in three colours, so only two of us look like matching dorks when we're on the mountain together) and no, none of us are being paid to endorse this product.

06/21 Arc'teryx just had a sale, and now five in my circles have this jacket. (Still only two of us with the tabasco though)

Loving this jacket!



The hood rocks -even with a helmet, and visibility is never compromised.



The Pit Zips are perfect, and material continues to bead well.



It is standing up well to durability tests. The sleeve cuffs may prove a weak point.

Just expensive.

Of course this jacket gets five stars. Not much I can add to the other two reviews except agree alot. Very light weight. I was surprised how light it was considering all the features it has. Also it is very flexible. I expected the jacket with thick XCR Gortex to be stiff. Not so, it is very soft and flexible.

Mobitlity in this jacket is great. I ice climb and long reaches for over head placements don't threaten to pull my arms out of the sleeves or pull up the bottom of the jacket.

The die cut velcro cuffs are easy to use and the shape keeps the velcro from finding your skin.

High stitch count makes for strong seams that will stay put for years of hard use. Where two seams come to gether they have an additional round seam seal to ensure long term durability and water proofing.

The chest pockets have a one inch pleat to allow larger objects to fit in the pockets.

The hood fits helmets and once you adjust it for your helmet when you turn your head the hood goes with it letting you see what you want to.

Can't say enough about this jacket.

Update: Used it in up to -15 degree temps with winds gusting to 60 mph. Still love this jacket. Two little quibbles: In the hood the upper draw string channel sticks out a bit in side the hood and catches swirling snow, after a bit the right movement brings the snow down in a little shower. I would also like a bottom up zipper for when I am belaying etc.

UPDATE: Over three years later in the same jacket - still love it. Still would buy it again.

Arc'Teryx has done it again.



I've been an outdoor retailer for almost eight years, and I pride my self in not picking favorites, but rather finding products that fit individuals needs. So, if you need a bomb proof, all weather, all mountain, all everything jacket, you have found the right one.



Pros: it has been the most durable water-proof breathable jacket I have found. The cut of the hood allows a lot of mobilty while still being form fitting. I've used it from everything from skiing, to ice climbing, to just walking to class in the rain.



Cons: Not that this is really a con, but the buyer should know that it is a very large cut to be used over multiple layers. I wouldn't recommend buying over the internet, rather try it on first. I love the water proof zippers, but be aware this jacket is specificaly designed to be climbing jacket. Water proof zippers tend to let wind through if you are using it downhill (skiing).



As long as you have a realistic idea of the purpose and design you will be happy with it.

So I bought this jacket about 3 months ago and since the minuet I put it on I loved it. It’s a great, great jacket with wonderful features and the attention to detail in this jacket is astounding. Every little thing has been thought of on this jacket, from the dual draw cords, one higher than the other to the multiple adjustments on the helmet compatible hood. Simply put it’s the best shell I've ever bought and I'm glad that I own it. I’ve used it in cold, wet and windy conditions on Mt. Baldy and Mount San Gorgonio, ice climbing in Lee Vining and I plan to use it on my upcoming trips on Mt. Shasta and Mt. Rainier.

I have had this jacket for three years and absolutely swear by it. This jacket has kept the wind, rain, snow, and ice off me at altitudes of up to 21k. It is bulletproof. The water proof sippers are tough as nails but easy to use. The hood goes over my helmet with no problem but does not interfere with my headlamp. There are pockets were they need to be and none that serve no purpose. I especially like the little shoulder pocket where I keep my lip gloss and map. Basically nothing gets that don't want in. This is a solid, tough, lightweight shell that, when used in conjunction with your other two layers, will do its part to keep you high and dry. Sure, its wicked expensive, but so aren't the medical bills when you use cheap stuff at extreme altitude and in extreme weather.