Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.27060°N / 71.3047°W |
Route Type:
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multipitch snow/ice climb |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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WI2+ |
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Approach
approach Huntington Ravine as for all other Hungtington routes. From the bottom of the headwall head pretty much straight up the big, steep snowfield in the center of the ravine to the right of Central gully, up to the base of one of two ice slabs - the left is called Yale Slab and the rightthe Harvard Slab. The right is generally taller and steeper. Either one is the beginning of the Yale Gully route, but surprisingly the Harvard slab is more direct.
Route Description
start by climbing either the Yale or Harvard slabs, with max angle of about 50 to 55 degrees. This usually takes two pitches, and most years there will be a pretty long shelf of snow between the two sections of ice. Once you're off the ice continue up the long snow couloir up to the top of the ravine, with running belays if desired. It's a sustained 45 degrees from here to the top for several hundred feet, thus a bit steeper than the exit gullies on the left side of Huntington, and the runout is long and unpleasant so be careful. There may be some pretty thin snow near the top especially when the snow is thin - we were on it in late April and were planting tools into grass and soil, but usually its not too bad. The finish (unlike, once again, the lefthand gullies) is very steep and dramatic - and unexpected, too, cause you can't see the top from inside the gully. All in all, a fine alpine climb.
Essential Gear
2 tools (for most climbers), pickets, ice screws, etc. - the usual ice/alpine stuff. A 60 m rope really helps. Since there are no long sustained sections of steep ice you probably won't need more than 5 or 6 screws, if that, but defintely have some.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.