Hoodwink, 5.10aR, 5 Pitches

Overview/Approach

There are several moderates in Tuolumne that have a certain “lore” (i.e. Dike Route and On the Lamb) among climbers who have led them and Hoodwink is one of those routes.  Its massive roof pull is wild, bold and physical, albeit quite positive.  The fact this pull is protected by a lone piton (2020) does add to the excitement. Outside of the roof pull, the first pitch offers by far the best climbing.  Inch by inch it is at best just an average route. The ability to combine routes of similar grade in full sun is what makes Harlequin wall in general a solid spring or fall objective.

Park at the Tenaya Lake parking lot and cross the road to the north.  Hike west along the road for a bit and then head up to access a treed ramp, left to right, that lands you below the corner of the first pitch with a bolted route out right (No Rock Nazis).  You can clearly see the roof you are pulling from the road and I have offered up photos marking up the exact spot of the roof pull.  There is not much of a trail to the base of this wall, but the approach is straightforward and relatively short.    

Route Descripton

1^st Pitch- 130’-5.8/ This pitch is clearly 30’ shorter than the local guide book topo has it (160’- 2020).  The guide also reflects a #.75-#1 gear belay atop it but in reality, the belay utilizes an older fixed pin and #.5.  MP.com has the entire pitch configuration different, but we led it based on the guide topo our first time to get a feel for it.  I see no reason to stop short as MP.com advises on this first pitch. This first pitch is also a bit stout for even typical Yosemite 5.8.  It starts off with an easy, but steep, hands/stem corner but then you have to make a few awkward/wide stems to traverse to the right most crack and escape ramp before continuing on two shorter and much easier corners above to an overlap with a piton in the corner and a belay stance out left on the slab.

2^nd Pitch- 90’-5.9/ Continue up the left facing corner that the belay is in and traverse left before the final meter or two, on slab (crux) to the base of a right facing dirty corner.  Climb this relatively easy corner to a small belay ledge below the arching corner that forms the roof above.

3rd^th Pitch- 45’-5.9/ This is where the local guide (supertopo) is way off (unusual for Chris).  He has the pitch breakdown such that you stop on this pitch before pulling the roof (one of two 5.10- cruxes of the entire route).  And he clearly has this pitch length at 90’ when it is half of that.  He also identifies the corner leading up to the roof as “polished and awkward”, of which I found it neither.  Nor did I feel it was 5.9.  It offered much easier climbing than the 1^st pitch.  My advice is to pull the roof on this pitch and belay directly above it and to extend your placements well to avoid rope drag.  In any regard, continue up the right facing corner through a tree and start traversing under the roof on lower angled ground.  If you are dividing it like the topo suggests, stop short of the pull by 20’.

4^th Pitch- 30’-5.10a/ Traverse right, stand up and clip the hidden piton (east facing).  At 5’11”, it is just within reach.  Then make a physical no feet pull up and left leg hook (vs foot hook) and mantel up to the small ledge with a bolted belay. Positive but physical and somewhat height dependent regarding difficulty.

5^th Pitch- 120’- 5.10a/ The guide has the whole route at 5.10a but the initial shallow corner slab moves through two new (2020) bolts surrounding one hangerless bolt (use a wire) are more 5.10 than 5.10a.  If any of the route felt “polished” this would be the section vs as stated on pitch 3 in the guide. MP.com also gives this pitch a 5.10 rating but the crux is well protected with shiny new bolts.  After getting through these initial three bolts the angle eases way up but is run out.  Follow a dike up through one remaining bolt. The further you trend right, the more knobs you find on the upper runout.  This 5.6-5.7 ground is where the route gets its “R” rating.  The topo suggests 90’, however it is a full 60m rope length to a tree belay on top of the shoulder to this formation. However, the last 80’ is just walking over to the tree.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Hike down the slab to the west of the face, skirting brush when you can.  In short order you can return through brush, east, to the base of the route.

Essential Gear

60m rope. The gear call in the local guide specified doubles to #2.  In reality, a single to #2 with some wires and/or off-sets would suffice.  There are several pitons and protection bolts on the route.  This face receives full day sun.