American Wet Dream, 5.10b, 5 Pitches

Overview/Approach

 
American Wet Dream is one of the easiest accessed and softest 5.10 trad climbs in all of Tuolumne Meadows, yet it seems overlooked (as mentioned by Chris in his ST guide as well).  Mountaineers Dome blends in along the road just east of the much more popular Stately Pleasure Dome (both belong to the same formation of rock). American Wet Dream is a “dream” lead for the beginning 5.10 trad leader (and particularly their belayer) as every pitch starts on a comfortable ledge and any 5.10 climbing is well protected not to mention limited to one or two moves if even. It was established in 1974.
 
The whole route follows a stair step type topo that keeps moving left up a series of ledges and corners. The route starts at the center-right side of the wall. The first pitch goes up a fun 5.9 splitter and follows the crack as it arches left onto a large ledge. All of the pitches felt soft to me, including this one which felt more like 5.8. Move left on the ledge to a right facing flake up fingers (5.10a) and stemming to yet another large ledge. The third pitch moves left yet again to a right facing corner crack that widens at the top. The beginning of this pitch is supposed to be 5.10b, but felt like 5.9 stemming. The fourth pitch traverses left across 5th class slab to a right facing finger crack/corner. Here the topo references a “tricky .3” when in reality a micro cam protects the cruxy stemming start to this pitch well.  As of 2015, MP.com has this pitch as run out but it is far from it as others attest on that site.   I combined these last two pitches for a full 70m rope stretcher. The last pitch is the only pitch that angles somewhat right before finishing straight up with no move harder than 5.7. I belayed on a tree on a large ledge on top of the route, but not he summit of the dome. The most my partner might have simul-climbed on this last stretch would have been the original 5th class traverse left to the base of the 4th pitch. Everything about this route is obvious and easy to follow.

Park at the trail head/restrooms located up the road a bit at the east end of Tenaya Lake. Hike east along the road and locate the highest trees along the base at the east end of Mountaineers Dome. An easy 5-10 minute hike lands you at the base of the route. You are looking for a bulging 5.8 splitter with a slab beginning (photo supplied). The walk-off descent leads right down to the trail head/restroom parking thus there is no reason to park alongside the road further east.

Route Description

1st Pitch- 120’- 5.9/ Most of this route is soft by Yosemite standards including the first pitch. Climb the obvious hand crack to an easy traverse up and left to a large ledge.

2nd Pitch- 70’- 5.10a/ Climb up the right side of the flake with some cruxy tips until you can stem out of it and jam a roof up and left with easy climbing to a nice ledge.

3rd Pitch- 70’- 5.10b/ The topo calls the 5.10b move at the “corner switch”. I did not think any of it felt anywhere near Yosemite 5.10b. Off the deck you start right but fairly immediate place bomber gear (C4#.5) in the left crack/corner and follow it up, mostly hands, to a nice ledge.

4th/5th Pitches- 230’- 5.10a/ I combined these last two pitches with a 70m rope. If your partner has to simul, it is mostly on the flat traverse left. Traverse left to the corner (it is not 5.7 as the topo suggest, more like 5th class).   Clip a bolt at the beginning (as I recall, the only fixed pro on the first four pitches) and start up the corner crack placing a solid micro in a good flake where the topo shows “tricky .3”.  If you have smaller cams, it is not a tricky placement.  Stem through the more difficult moves. Follow the corner as it eases way up to a smaller ledge.  Traverse right and angle up easy slab to a stance and gear. There are several obvious places for gear but because it is easy slab, it is run out as is typical for the area.  From the stance angle slightly up and back left to the huge ledge above the wall and belay off of a tree.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

You can walk off left via some exposed 5th class ledges. But if any of that traverse is wet, I advise to continue up (head up and right, then back left wherever it makes sense) and walk off much less exposed ground to a significant gully that aims directly for the parking area. The guide mentions “a lot of bushwhacking”. I suppose it is all relative, but the descent can be done in approximately 20-30 minutes and I do not call that bushwhacking by any measure.

Essential Gear

A standard rack to 2” would suffice for most competent trad leaders. Some micro cams and/or proficiency with off-set nut placement will help on at least one crux of the route. The wall faces south, so dress accordingly. A 70m rope will allow you to combine those last two pitches, otherwise a single rope should suffice since it is a walk off.

Images

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