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Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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42.68900°N / 0.01600°E |
Route Type:
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Mountaineering |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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One to two days |
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Difficulty:
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PD |
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Number of Pitches:
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3 |
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Grade:
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II |
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Approach
The same of normal route across Pradera de Ordesa and refuge of Góriz.In summer you must take the bus in the village of Torla to arrive to Pradera de Ordesa (it's forbidden to vehicles).
The beggining is the same of normal route to Góriz. You must consult the approach to Góriz in Normal Route.
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Route Description
Slope: 2035m from Pradera de Ordesa (6-7 hours to summit), 1165m from mountain hut of Góriz (3-4h to summit).The general idea for this climb is to realize it in 2 days (one night in Góriz and the climb at the next day) but for trained mountaineers is very possible the climb in only 1 day in summer whithout problems (Total: 12 h).
Inicially in Góriz we take the normal route (generally with a lot of people that climb the normal route). During 45 minutes approximately we share the route with them across the Barranco de Góriz but when we turn to the left side bordering on the SW's spur of Monte Perdido we have to be very attentive to estimate broad channel that takes to us the Route of Escaleras that is put up signs with cairns in rigth side. After the channel in a little col we follow the cairns of stones to the left side (ever SW) and we begin the escaleras (the name escaleras, stairs in english, is due to the terraces divided by ramps of hard slope, like great stairs). The route is evident and the first step-crossings on rock stairs are easies (rock climbing grade I or I+). In the last great stair we find the ridge and summit of another peak, the Pico de las Escaleras (3027m). The view of the south face of Monte Perdido from here is unusual and great. To the right side we descent a few of meters to ascend for hard ramps with little path in zig-zag to a break in the wall of grade I+ (signaled with cairn). We stand near to the bottom of the first important chimney in the ridge SW of Monte Perdido in the left side.
-Chimney 1: 10 meters, not exposed, grade II. Easy.
After a greater ramp we reach the second chimney, the key step-crossing of this route:
-Chimney 2 or Chimney Rushmore: 20 meters, not exposed but more vertical, grade II (in 2-3 meters is II+ or even III-). A little more complicated. Not really difficult for mountaineers but in days with wet rock of with other persons less experienced is possible to need a rope (advisable to the descent). I don't find metallic anchorages for the rope nowadays (year 2004). This chimney is possible to signaled with grade II+ or III (many diverse opinions about this). With some of ice (some days in early of season) the grade it's really III.
After the chimney we reach the final of the ridge SW. Only rest the last meters to the cone of the summit but the ramp is hard with zig-zag but without difficulties. (3355m).
The route to descent is the normal.
Important: this is an itinerary less frequented and nice but only for mountaineers; the rest of persons they must to climb the normal route (F). A little of experience in chimneys of grade II or II+ is neccesary, but it's not very difficult (PD).
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Essential Gear
Water (available in mountain hut of Góriz, no more places with water from there).If it is wanted to descent by this route or if the climatological conditions are bad (make to think of having move back) it is advisable to take rope and harness to get down the 2 chimneys.
Links
inazio route with images.neozero images and description
eza - Sep 6, 2007 6:05 am - Voted 10/10
A historical route!Though it was never really known how did they get to the summit, this is supposed to be the route taken by the first known climbers of Monte Perdido: Rondo, Laurens and their unknown shepherd (see main page)