Dike Route

Overview

The Dike Route ascends arguably the most noticeable and outstanding single geologic feature in the Teton Range, the linear basalt Dike that shoots straight up the center of the east face of the Middle Teton above the scenic Meadows campsite in Garnet Canyon. Like a giant yardstick propped up against the mountain, this Dike is impossible not to notice while hiking up the canyon. It rises directly out of the talus and snowfield at the base to ascend about ⅔ of the way up the Middle Teton in a direct line. The first 500 feet of this route ascends the Dike exclusively, as it’s the only moderate passage among the much steeper surrounding granite walls. After this, it becomes much less steep and the Dike disappears intermittently beneath talus and snow. About ⅔ of the way from the base to the summit, the Dike Pinnacle forces a traverse left and up into a col between the Pinnacle and the upper section of the Middle. After crossing the col, moderate slabs lead directly to the summit. 

This is the longest and straightest route you can follow from base to summit on the Middle Teton. Cruxes are few and far between, and the climbing is very moderate overall. Though the Dike eases in steepness drastically once on the mountain, the rock crux on the Dike itself is NOT at the bottom of the route, but rather about 300 feet off the ground, and is vertical and exposed, but reasonably protected. Gear is sparse on the Dike, and the climbing can be a bit runout, especially the first section above the ground. Bailing from anywhere on route would be very difficult. Loose rock exists, but is avoidable with careful climbing. The holds are generally solid and positive. The upper section of the mountain, and the subtle traverse around the Dike Pinnacle aren’t straightforward and require some routefinding attention. This route is certainly very moderate, but is obscure enough to make it pretty adventurous. Depending on time of year climbed, snow will add another obstacle, as even in the late season steep snow covers the base of the Dike, as well as at the notch. 

Getting There

Hike to the Meadows tent sites in Garnet Canyon, at the base of the long steep hill that leads towards the Lower Saddle between the Grand and the Middle. Follow describtion on main page. 

Route Description

From the Meadows primitive tent spots in the boulderfield along the trail, ascend the talus to the base of the snow directly beneath the very obvious Dike. If you don’t know what you’re looking for, you aren’t up there to climb this route. 

Climb moderate snow as high as you can onto the Dike. A deep schrundcrack may be encountered in later season while transitioning from snow to the Dike. Climb steadily upward, following the ~20 foot wide basalt dike. Though it begins steeply, the holds are large and incut, and it’s obvious to follow the path of least resistance. Some good gear can be found from time to time, but it is runout. Belay when convenient. After about 200 feet the grade of the Dike eases significantly, however don’t be fooled, as the crux still lies above; about 300 above the ground, the Dike steepens again and you’ll a find small ledge and some pitons nested below a short, steep corner on the right side of the Dike. Climb either the corner or the blocks to the left (crux), and keep following the Dike until it becomes less steep again. From here for a while, the Dike eases up to mainly 3rd class and climbs another 600 feet up onto the east face of the Middle Teton, where it starts to disappear underneath snow and rock, into the ridge. Continue up on granite on mostly 3rd and 4th class terrain (with a few very easy 5th class moves), and in 700-800 feet you’ll be nearing the Dike Pinnacle, which is very difficult to make out as such from this vantage point. Before going too high, find a short easy 5th class downclimb heading down and around to the left of the area beneath the pinnacle. Your goal is to aim for a large ledge which leads you around a corner and into the gully on the south side of the col. Climb 4th class ledges to the col. If you find yourself on the Dike Pinnacle itself, you’ve gone a couple hundred feet too high. 

Cross the snowbridge over onto the upper face of the Middle Teton (axe/crampons useful here). Climb 40 feet up a ramp to the right, and turn a small roof to the left, and continue up class 4/low class 5 rock. Depending on snow conditions, one may need to traverse far left or right in this section. Trend right, into the notch near the summit and surmount the final class 4 terrain directly onto the summit. 

Descent via the SW Couloir route. 

Essential Gear

If climbing with a rope, a 60m and single rack will suffice. Ice/axe crampons make the snow sections casual. You might be able to get away without them in softer snow conditions, but it could be dicey.

External Links

Spot weather forecast here.