The actual climbing route is the path of least resistance on the ridge above to where it intersects the SW Ridge route while staying as close as possible to the ridge crest.
Most of the difficulties can be passed on the left (west) side of the ridge crest. When the Chouinard Ridge finally intersects the SW Ridge you can then either follow this ridge to the North Summit which is the higher of the two or you can cross over the SW Ridge into the SW Coulior and continue the 200 feet to the summit.
A small rack consisting of stoppers, cams and long runners. A single 60m rope and a helmet.
Beta Photos
Due to the location and angle of the climb, one cannot get a good look at the ridge from anywhere in South Fork. The book " A Climbers Guide to the Teton Range" has great photos of the route that were taken from both the air and the neighboring Cloudveil Dome, which I have not been on.
I would rate this route III 5.4-5.6.
There are two options for getting started, up the Ellingwood & South Couloirs as described here, or up a low-angle groove/chimney to the left. The latter had several bail slings, and a lot of running water during our late season attempt. My partners opted not to bring axes, so that was our best option that day. Went back the next week with a different partner, better weather, and axes and crampons - I *much* preferred the standard couliors approach.
If you start via the Ellingwood Coulior, it is fairly natural to stay right for the initial 700 feet of the route, and just 3rd class it. However, our previous attempt showed us that there is plenty of good rock closer to the ridge crest which is low 5th class. Your choice.
About halfway up you come to the "inside corner" described in Ortenburger & Jackson's guidebook, a 25-30 foot step that is low 5th class (we actually 3rd classed it before we realized where we were). Above this point you want to more seriously try to stay near the ridge crest - we found about 8 X 60 meter pitches, mostly on or to the right of the ridge crest.
If you continue up the beautiful orange-gold buttress just above the inside corner, you will skip the first of the "caves" described in Ortenburger and Jackson.
It took us about 16 hours, car to car.
Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.
DougHemken - Aug 25, 2010 2:56 pm - Hasn't voted
Many optionsI would rate this route III 5.4-5.6. There are two options for getting started, up the Ellingwood & South Couloirs as described here, or up a low-angle groove/chimney to the left. The latter had several bail slings, and a lot of running water during our late season attempt. My partners opted not to bring axes, so that was our best option that day. Went back the next week with a different partner, better weather, and axes and crampons - I *much* preferred the standard couliors approach. If you start via the Ellingwood Coulior, it is fairly natural to stay right for the initial 700 feet of the route, and just 3rd class it. However, our previous attempt showed us that there is plenty of good rock closer to the ridge crest which is low 5th class. Your choice. About halfway up you come to the "inside corner" described in Ortenburger & Jackson's guidebook, a 25-30 foot step that is low 5th class (we actually 3rd classed it before we realized where we were). Above this point you want to more seriously try to stay near the ridge crest - we found about 8 X 60 meter pitches, mostly on or to the right of the ridge crest. If you continue up the beautiful orange-gold buttress just above the inside corner, you will skip the first of the "caves" described in Ortenburger and Jackson. It took us about 16 hours, car to car.