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5628 Hits
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73.06% Score
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3 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.43020°N / 13.49590°E |
Route Type:
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Via Ferrata |
Season:
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Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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Medium hard ferrata |
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Grading the Route (by Hiking Standards)
Tomi Gellér - InnominataAs the Riofredo notch can be reached from various sides and by routes of various length and difficulty, this rating is done only for the part from Forcella di Riofredo (notch) to the summit of Jôf Fuart / Viš. To reach the notch from valleys, you need some 4-5 additional hours.
0. Overall. From 2240 m to 2666 m, exposition mixed (S, W, also parts on the N sides of the ridge). Medium hard ferrata, on some places very exposed, but well secured. Despite a small altitude difference quite a long crossing of rocky walls, by beautiful ledges, from notch to noch. When snow on high parts, the detour of Innominata by the northern variant can be tricky. Gears: normal equipment for ferratas.
1. Effort. 500-550 m, 3 h.
2. Power. 4 - hard. Quite some pulling over vertical details of the ferrata. The southern detour of Innominata is the hardest part (rare pegs), otherwise the grading would be 3.
3. Psyche. 4 - hard. Quite exposed on many places.
4. Orientation. 1 - easy. Well marked.
Tomi Gellér - Anita Goitan from Rif. Corsi
Approach
You can reach Forcella di Riofreddo, 2240 m, from many sides (see also the main page).
1. The normal option would be through Riofredo valley, 4 h 30 min. You can reach the upper part of Riofredo valley also from Rif. Pellarini over Sella Carnizza (From Pellerini to Riofredo notch 4 h, from the road in Saissera 5 h 30 min).
2. The second option to reach Riofredo notch would be through the neighbouring Riobianco valley. From the main valley Rio del Lago into Riobianco valley and up to Forcella del Vallone, 2180 m. Then some 100 m down and up again to Forcella di Riofredo. 4 h 30 min.
3. From Rif. Corsi (hut), 1874 m. 1 h 30 min from the hut, 4 h 30 min from the road.
Route Description
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 Cima di Riofreddo / Divja Koza Bor - The ledges of Anita GoitanOn Riofreddo notch the beautiful ferrata Anita Goitan starts. It uses parts of the Ledges of Gods, by which Jôf Fuart / Viš is so famous. The start of ferrata is steep and quite hard, as if it was meant to deter all the weak and undetermined climbers. Then soon a broad ledge towards the left is used, crossing the southern face of Cima di Riofredo / Divja Koza. When the ledge comes to its end the route climbs safely to the upper ledge, continuing the traverse through a wild and more and more beautifull wall. Finally the route enters a big ravine, west of Cima di Riofredo / Divja Koza (its summit can be reached from here by easy climbing (UIAA II.) in some 45 minutes till here. The Anita Goitan ferrata continues by nice ledges, turning more towards Jôf Fuart / Viš. So we arrive into another beautiful notch - the one east of Innominata. This needle can be summited only by a harder and exposed climb, but the famous Ledges of Gods go around it by both (soutn and north) sides. If there's no snow more recommendable is the northern option, where we can admire wild northern walls of this beautiful group. The southern variant is a more difficult stretch of ferrata. So, passing Innominata, Anita Goitan switches on the southern slopes again. It continues by ledges below the summit of Turn, 2503 m. Just before reaching the ravine between Turn and the next summit Madre dei Camosci / Gamsova Mati, 2518 m, we can climb up to the summit of the former (easy climb, UIAA I.) and further by the main ridge also to the latter. In early summer also the ravine between the two is fine for the ascent, with crampons and ice-axe, of course. If we have no ambitions to climb these two summits, we simply continue by the ledges of Anita Goitan towards Jôf Fuart / Viš. Before reaching the notch below it, the route descends a bit and joins the normal south route, arriving towards the summit directly from Rif. Corsi. Now we turn up, overcome some more steep passages, secured with pegs and ropes and finally do the last 100 meters to the highest point. |