Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.37800°N / 12.55500°E |
Route Type:
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Via Ferrata |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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very difficult via ferrata |
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Overview
This is the only via ferrata of the group Dolomiti d'oltre Piave ( there's another secured path on the shoulder of Monte Duranno but is more an alpinistic route ) and its realization has been very disputed, especially by the more "integralists" climbers, that tought this tower, for its alpinistic history, should be reserved only for specialists. It's true that now it's accessible also to non-climbers, but this route is very difficult and can be done only by via ferrata experts, so it's not like some of those overcrowded vie ferrate in the Dolomites. I think the group of alpinists of Forni di Sopra did a very good job, using only iron ropes even in the most difficult passages. They put a few rungs and a couple of handles just in the trickiest part of the descent.This via ferrata will certainly not disappoint the lovers of this alpine discipline. It's short but very demanding, both physically and psychologically. The level of difficulty is very high for this kind of routes, without iron ropes it would be a climb with various passages of the UIAA III, IV and IV+ degree. So if you haven't a fine climbing tecnique the only way to go up is using the strenth of your arms ( but I wouldn't advice that…).
Approach
Passo del Mus1) Just before Forni di Sopra ( coming from east ) turn left to the small village of Andrazza. Follow the wooden tags for the path 362 to Val di Suola. After a kilometer or so park your car before the small bridge on the river Tagliamento.
Then follow the indications first for Rifugio Flaiban-Pacherini and then to passo del Mus. From there turn left and follow the red dots to the via ferrata ( 2 hours 45 minutes ).
2) From Cimolais take the narrow road to val Cimoliana and drive until the end of the road, where you'll find a parking space just before Rifugio Pordenone. Then follow the indications for the paths 361/362 to Val Postegae, Val di guerra and Passo del Mus ( 3 hours ) .
Route Description
The first 10/15 minutes of the route are quite easy ( UIAA I and II if not secured ) but then, when you meet the iron rope of the descent route ( on your right ), you immediatly realize the difficulty of the via ferrata. There's a yellow-black wall in front of you and the climb of it, especially in the first part, reaches very high levels of difficulty ( maximum IV+).
The exposition is extreme and no mistakes can be forgiven ( falling here, even wearing the ferrata set, would be very dangerous, you'd surely get hurt ).
After this 100 meters of vertical climbing the route gently takes you to the panoramic summit ( 1 hour from the base of the tower ). The descent follows the eastern ledge and then goes down vertically on the north side. There are some very difficult and exposed passages in this part too, although there's the help of the rungs. Then you meet the first part of the ferrata and in a few minutes you'll be back to Passo del Mus ( 45 minutes ).