Upper Bread Loaves, East, 5.7-5.11d

Overview/Approach

(Lost Pioneers in photo above) Upper Breadloaves (east) offers up an intimidating roof system on its east face that is climbed via an awesome looking route named Spider Gawd (5.11b).  This roof system is by far Breadloaves most interesting feature.   A perfect hands splitter below these roofs is a worthy popular moderate named Fred Rasmussen (5.8).  It offers a bolted finish to make it a two pitch route and they named this finish Two Bits (5.11a).  Another moderate worthy of mention on this wall that is slightly more north facing offering a different shade aspect is named Lost Pioneers (5.10a).  This corner through a series of overhangs climbs better than it looks via a hand-finger crack.    

Park at the old water pump and head straight up to the base of the wall for Lost Pioneers.  Fred Rasmussen and Spider Gawd are to the left, truly east facing.  A decent trail circumvents the base of the wall all the way to Bloody Fingers Corridor which is a popular area.  

EAST FACE   Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall

Roman Meal- 5.8*/

Reid’s Route- 5.9*/

Catwalk- 5.8***/ I soloed this route eons ago when it carried a “R” rating.  Do not remember it much except it reads in the latest guide like Egyptian (which I just climbed 2020) just to the right of it. The under-cling flake in the center of it is cool for sure.  Otherwise the climbing is well below grade and quite similar to any line through this south end of the east face.  This is a very featured face area of Upper Bread Loaves. Dow

The Egyptian, 5.8*/ More of a typical 5.7 trad lead than 5.8 by any standards.  180’ tall route that follows a left facing corner by mostly climbing the heavily featured face out left versus any actual crack climbing.  No bolts or fixed station.  Build a gear belay in a medium sized crack on top.  Rap Two Bits to the north to the ground with a single 70m. Gear to #3.  Dow

Manky Scum- 5.7/

English Muffin- 5.9/

”X”, 5.10a/

Fred Rasmussen- 5.8***/ Perfect hand crack to teach jamming on.  Albeit short.  Beautiful roofs above.  The start might be the crux move for less experienced crack climbers. Dow

Two Bits, 5.11a*/

Spider Gawd- 5.11b**/

Urban Renewal- 5.11d**/

Lost Pioneers- 5.10a**/ This route is better than it looks but still nothing great and soft for the grade. Pull several bulges up a corner with a ring lock thrown in with a hand jam here and there. Worth doing if already on Interceptor and Tide Country. Dow

Green Crack- 5.11a**/

No Cash Refunds- 5.8*/