The Mall, 5.10-5.11b

Overview/Approach

 
After leading the tenuous Salty Dog on Finger Rock, why not head to the Mall and suffer on Masochistic Opposite (5.10a*). This route is really an off-width boulder problem. After ten to fifteen feet it is a 5th class solo to the top where you can walk off. That does make those first couple of wide crack moves any easier. Four of us made a run at it which resulted in a lot of groaning and moaning. A single C4#6 is all you need if you do not have a bouldering pad. Facing left, then finishing the crux off by facing right seems to be the unlock. The smaller you are, the better off you will be for his one, it is an awkward size and has a bit of an overhang to it.  Getting your shoulder and hip into it is makes it more probable.  The guidebook mentions “scaly, crumbly rock” at the Mall and that was part of the crux to starting Masochistic, hard to gain any purchase with your shoes. This is perhaps the least attractive formation/destination in all of the City.

Park at the water pump parking area next to Breadloaves. Cross the road and Masochistic is the wide (short-40’) crack staring at you from 5 minutes away. There is not much of a trail up to it. There is a corridor behind Masochistic that has four more routes in it that are twice as tall.

Route Description (s)

Southwest Face

Masochistic Opposite- 40’-5.10a*/Like Salty Dog, I do not believe many at the City are out to climb much off width therefore this route sees little to no traffic. Masochistic’s crux is off the deck. The only pro that will be useful is a C4#6. This crux is more challenging than any move on Salty and will be challenging for even the most seasoned 5.10 off width climber. Start out facing left, then turn and face right for the slow inch by inch crawl on crumbling rock. Smaller climbers might have an advantage if they can get their left shoulder in. After the first couple meters, there is nothing else to the climb. Walk off the back. The guide is incorrect in suggesting gear to 5”.  The only gear with any purpose on this route is 6". Dow

Corridor, Routes Listed Left to Right 

Images

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