Page Type Page Type: Trip Report
Location Lat/Lon: 33.3637°S / 69.80057°W
Additional Information GPX File: Download GPX » View Route on Map
Date Date Climbed/Hiked: Jan 13, 2016
Activities Activities: Mountaineering
Seasons Season: Summer

Trip Summary
Tupungato Expedition January 13 to January 22 2016

Expedition outfitter: Andesport (http://www.andesport.com)

Guides: Miguel Infante and Maximilano Villar

Day 1 – Santiago to Mule Camp by vehicle. Then hiking from Mule
Camp (6691 ft / 2039 m) to approach Camp 1 Banos Azules (8646 ft/ 2635 m). Distance:
6 mi / 9.5 km. Total ascent: 1964 ft / 599 m approx. Time: 5 hours.

Drive from Santiago to the mule camp by the mine. On the way
we stopped at the police station in San Jose de Maipo to have our
papers/permits checked. We also stopped at the mining company’s gate and had
out papers checked there. The drive was 3-4 hours with the stops. It’s about 15
mi / 24 km from the mine gate to the mule camp (6691 ft / 2039 m) on graded
dirt road. From the mule camp to the end of the drivable road and start of the
hike in, it’s about 2 mi / 3.2 km. The hike in had one bridge crossing of Rio
Colorado and one small side drainage wade. Note: It’s not recommended to drink
the water from the Travertine pools at Banos Azules. Utilize the river for
water.

Note on weather: The guides indicated the previous winter
was a good snow year. It’s assumed we had more snow and higher run off than in previous
years during our trip. We had warm sunny conditions during the entire trip. As
a result the stream crossings on the way out were noticeably higher than on the
way in. Deepest spots were knee deep with swift current. Use caution! Trekking
poles a must for the crossings to help with balance and keeping up right.

Day 2 – Approach Camp 1 Banos Azules (8646 ft/ 2635 m) to
Approach Camp 2 Vegas Flojos (10858 ft / 3309 m). Distance: 10 mi / 6.2 km.
Total ascent: 3884 ft / 1183 m. Time: 8 hours

Two big canyon rivers to cross, Estero del Museo and Estero
del Azufre. Both have bridges across the streams. Both are entrenched in
canyons, so the trail drops down then ascends through both canyons, resulting
in extra elevation gain for the day. Also about 4-5 minor stream crossings.
There are some fresh water ponds located by the camp.

Day 3 - Approach Camp 2 Vegas Flojos (10858 ft / 3309 m) to
Base Camp (14474 ft / 4411 m). Distance 6.2 mi / 10 km. Total ascent: 4009 ft /
1219 m. Time: 6.5 hours.

Another 4-5 minor stream crossings today. We passed by some
smaller tent platforms at 13266 ft / 4043 m. The larger base camp is about 1000
ft above these tent platforms. We had snow at this camp and were able to find
running water from snow melt.

Day 4 - Carry to Camp 1a (16058 ft / 4894 m) and back to
Base Camp. Distance: 1.4 mi / 2.2 km. Total ascent: 1776 ft / 541 m. Time: 3 –
3.5 hours.

We ascended through various snow fields that had one foot
high penitentes in them. Fortunately we were able to by-pass some areas of the
snow fields with penitentes because of clear areas of dirt. We set our camp at
16058 ft which had some existing tent platforms. Our camp was a bit lower than
then normal Camp 1 at 16800 ft / 5120 m. The normal Camp 1 likely has better access
to water (snow field) during dryer times or later in the season. Descent back
to base camp was 1.25 hours.

Day 5 – Move from Base camp to Camp 1a.

Setup camp on dry ground but had access to flowing water
from nearby snow melt. Great views of Aconcagua to the North from our camp.

Day 6 – Camp 1a (16058 ft / 4894 m) to Camp 2 (18466 ft /
5628 m). Distance: 2 mi / 3.2 km. Total ascent: 2684 ft / 818 m. Time: 4 hours.

A fair number of tent platforms around the general area of
Camp 2. There was one large site in a bit more sheltered area at 18929 ft /
5769 m which we passed through on summit day. Our actual camp was about 500 ft
lower. Again we were lucky and found some running water from a snow bank at our
camp.

Day 7 – Camp 2 to Summit (21554 ft / 6570 m ) (21570 ft GPS
altitude) and descent to Camp 1. Distance to summit: 2.4 mi / 3.9 km. Total
Ascent to summit: 3088 ft / 941 m. Time to summit: 8 hours.

Note: The Garmin GPS indicated the summit was 21570 ft and the elevation noted on the map was 21554 ft.

Conditions for summit day were just about ideal. The
temperatures were around 15 to 25 F / -9 to -4 C and winds were 5-10 mph / 8 –
16 kmh. The ascent through the Canaleta was the most difficult part of the
climb. Snow and some ice just before entering the Canaleta with steep and loose
dirt conditions in the Canaleta. It’s recommended to carry a GPS unit during
the climb to aid in navigation of the upper mountain. It would be difficult to
navigate in cloudy or foggy conditions. Our guide related a story of an
attempted rescue he was involved with in 2008. Two climbers split up with one
descending back to high camp and the other continuing on toward the summit.
Weather was poor conditions and the person that went for the summit never
returned and his body was not found.

Day 8 – Spent the night at Camp 1 and descended to Base
Camp. Descent to Base Camp took about 1.5 hrs. Enjoyed a pleasant sunny calm
day at the camp.

Day 9 - Departed camp around 11:00 am and passed the mule
drivers about an hour from camp on the way up to get our gear. Long day of
hiking as we hiked about half the distance out to the trail head. Very warm
conditions and lots of snow had melted. Stream crossings were much higher than
on the way in. Covered about 12 miles and camped at a cowboy camp with a spring
for our last camp.

Day 10 – Depart camp about 10:00 am and cover the last 8-10
miles back to the mule camp. A few beers at the trail head and then the drive
back to Santiago.



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