Tower Arete

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 48.66950°N / 119.93245°W
Additional Information GPX File: Download GPX » View Route on Map
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: Class 4
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 5
Additional Information Grade: I
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

On the right end of the north side of Tiffany is a tower-like feature (as seen from below). This easy route climbs the arête of this tower and lower ridge, and follows the same ridge as the North Tower Ridge Route while avoiding that route's steeper, more technical pitches. It is a fun route for the exposure and views and while the climbing is easy a rope is advised due to the abundance of unstable rock on the ridge crest.

Getting There

From Honeymoon pass hike up the old trail on the NE Ridge to the col above Little Tiffany Lake. Traverse to the south and down to the base of the prominent arête that leads to the North Tower (30 minutes from the pass)

Route Description

Climb the arête staying on the ridge as much as possible and being careful of the loose rock and boulders. This is an easy route up sometimes questionable rock, but the views and exposure are great.

P1 - 4th class 100' - climb up the initial rocky ridge past the sandy grassy patch to the base of the long ridge section

P2 - 4th class 200' - climb along the low angled ridge to an alcove at the base of the tower

P3 - 4th class 175' - stay left of the vertical section and keep on the ridge to belay about 15' above a small stunted pine 

P4 - 4th class 90' - belay on the top.

P5 - 3rd class 75' - continue along the crest to the south to gain the main slope of Tiffany

Descend by walking down the NW Ridge of Tiffany to the top of the NE Ridge above Little Tiffany Lake. Follow the old trail down this ridge to join the main trail near Honeymoon Pass.

Essential Gear

60 m rope and a selection of long slings.

External Links

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Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.