Approach
The base of the climb is the Reiterstub'n Restaurant in Winkeltal. You get there by leaving B100 at Sillian, direction Außervillgraten. At the village follow the signs to Winkeltal and after some 3km you'll be at the trailhead.
Route Description
General data
- Start altitude: 1450m
- Summit altitude: 2918m
- Prevailing exposition: E and S
- Type: 1h 30min over forest roads, 2h through a rocky cirque, 1h rocky summit climb
- Protection: marked but without security
Effort: 1500m of altitude gain, 8km distance to the summit.
Power: 1 - no difficulties
Psyche: 2 - exposed near the summit
Orientation: 1 - easy
The first part of the climb follows a forrest road to Tillachalm. The road is not frequented very much but if it is you can use a hiking trail which follows the Tillacherbach Valley. Since it cuts short some of the bends it is much steeper than the road so that I would prefer the road.
From Tillachalm the trail splits into two ascent routes. One, marked 3C, runs along the southern slopes of the cirque until it meets the Gumiraul south ridge. The other, 3D takes the northern slopes of the cirque and also meets the south ridge (but some 50 - 100m higher).
From the upper intersection the trail uses the south ridge and often switches sides (W - E). It is a 200m (altitude) scramble of UIAA grade I+, which lets most climbers use it as ascent route while taking the south-eastern ridge as descent route. If you want to do this, you have to take into account that the traverse between south-east ridge and south ridge is possible only after you have reached Lake Anras and thus is quite a large deviation.
Essential Gear
To reach the false summit with the cross (some 15m lower than the real one) hiking gear is enough. If you want to climb the real summit (or the traverse to Gölbner you need to bring full climbing equipment.