Approach
Rock Creek / Little Lakes Valley. We camped at the Treasure Lakes, a beautiful camp spot.
Route Description
We camped at Treasure Lakes. This makes for a long approach, but a shorter hike in and out. The easiest approach is a " trail " to the right ( facing Dade from the lakes ) of the glacier fed stream coming down from Mt. Dade. The climb consisted of crossing the bershrund ( exciting ) and climbing 2 pitches of 45 - 50 degree snow or ice ( in August 2002 it was ice ). Beware of rock and ice falling - I had several rocks fly over me while in the 'shrund. Above the ice three 200' pitches ( we have 200' 9.8mm ropes - very handy ) led to the summit ridge - mostly class 4. We may have been off route, as one can climb almost anywhere on the North Face. None the less, I found it a satisfying and fun climb. We also videotaped this climb if anyone is interested.
Essential Gear
Ice tools ( 2 each ), crampons, 3 ice screws, helmets, a light rock rack ( Friends / cams helpful ), slings, rope.
Miscellaneous Info
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