The Kone

Overview & Pitch Linking

The Kone is a nice easy 5 pitch 5.9 slab climb located in the Great Arch area at Three O'Clock Rock. While the first pitch of the route is sustained, the upper pitches go very quickly on slabs covered with huge knobs. The first pitch is probably not a good lead for someone new to 5.9 slab as the pro is pretty far apart. A better option if you want more protection is to climb the first 3 pitches of nearby Till Broad Daylight then link it to the top of The Kone.

Pitches 2 and 3 of The Kone can easily be linked via 60 meter ropes, with no rope drag issues.

Approach

Follow the approach as mentioned on the main page. From the boulderfield where the Eightmile Creek Trail breaks out into a clearing, take the climber's path towards the great arch area. After a couple of minutes you come to a T, turn left here. Follow the path up until at the base of the rock.

The Kone starts on the smooth slab just left of the big obvious Cornicopia flake to the right of the Great Arch above.

Route Description

Pitch #1 - 5.9 or so - Work your way up the smooth slab clipping 5 bolts as you go. There is also a good cam placement between the first and second bolt. Protection is about 25 feet apart on this pitch, so be solid at the grade. Climbing is nice and sustained in the 5.8 to 5.9 range. The crux is just below the last bolt, a smooth high angle pure friction slab that felt like 5.10A or B for 2 moves. 140 feet

Pitch #2 - 5.7 - Crank up the steep and very knobby slab clipping 3 bolts as you go. Climbing is mostly mid fifth, short pitch. 60 feet

Pitch #3 - 5.9 or 5.7 - Pass the overlap on the left (easier) or the right (harder), then fly up the steep slab with huge knobs everywhere. 120 feet

Pitch #4 - 5.9 - Traverse to your left under the overlap above on the steep but knobby slab. Climbing is mostly mid 5th with one interesting 5.9 section. 130 feet

Pitch #5 - Continue up and to your left on the nice more sustained 5.8 slab to reach the final set of chains. 90 feet

Down - Rap the Tidbits route, directly below you in 3 double rope rappels, then scramble back to your packs.

Essential Gear

1 or 2 cams in the .75 to 1.25" range
2 50 or 60 meter ropes
7 draws or slings

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

View The Kone Image Gallery - 8 Images