Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.41600°N / 13.68300°E |
Route Type:
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Basic Snow, Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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A long day |
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Difficulty:
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Rock Climbing I-II, secured paths |
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About Routes
Planica & Tamar Valleys routes
Starting point of this route is Tamar hut, which lies in Tamar valley. Tamar valley is actually upper part of Planica valley, which is farthest to the west of all Julian Alps valleys, which are perpendicular on Upper Sava River valley. Planica is best known for ski jumping & flying. World distance records have been set here. Valley is closed on the south by massive walls of Mojstrovka, Travnik & Sit ridge. On its beginning lies the village of Ratece.
Tamar hut (1108m) stands on the edge of a meadow from which is beautiful view on the towering peaks around, especially Jalovec. This is one of the most romantic spots in Julian Alps. It was opened in 1899. It has 128 beds and its open all year round. Tamar hut is accessible by car from Ratece (6km).
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Tamar hut – Jalovec via Jalovcev Ozebnik couloir: 5-6h
From the Tamar hut path gradually ascends through the forest till it reaches huge scree slopes at the end of the valley. Cliffs on both sides of the valley are getting closer and valley gets steeper all the time, turning it almost into gorge. Over the scree and snow fields path reaches the bottom of Jalovec cliffs. Here the cliffs get so close that between them there is only enough space for a steep snowy couloir – Jalovcev Ozebnik. Through this dark, over 300 meters high gorge, which has 40 degree gradient is better to climb as quickly as possible to reduce the risk of falling stones on your head (helmet necessary)! From the couloir we exit onto less steep snowy slopes, which takes us to horizontal ridge. On the other side of it we join the trail from Zavetisce pod Spicko refuge.
Further path ascends above the edge of Loski Zleb couloir till it reaches summit pyramid cliffs. Over the steep and smooth shelves, which are secures by fixed ropes and pegs, it climbs to the left, than it turns straight up towards summit ridge. 15 more minutes till the summit over the beautiful sharp and panoramic ridge. Valleys on both sides are so deep bellow.
Route through the Jalovcev Ozebnik couloir is most natural way to climb Jalovec from the north but it is only for experienced and equipped mountaineers. Crampons, ice axe and helmet are necessary. Degree of difficulty depends on snow conditions, which are better earlier in the summer. Till autumn snow usually turns into ice.
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Tamar hut – Jalovec via Jalovska Skrbina pass: 6.30h
From Tamar hut read route 1 till path reaches bottom of Jalovec cliffs. Under a huge cliff, which splits lower par of couloir into two half’s, path turns left. Secured path begins here and climbs out of couloir over a short but steep cliff to the Jalovska Skrbina pass (2117m).
On the other side path firstly descends a little bit and than it traverses the slope bellow the cliffs of Golicica peak. Over a larger snowfield it again reaches the steep, exposed and smooth cliff. After that path goes left using long and exposed shelf and than climbs very steeply till the scree slope above the cliffs. Than we join the path through Jalovcev Ozebnik couloir and little bit further ahead is junction with Zavetisce pod Spicko refuge route. One more hour till the summit. For further going read route 1).
This route is longer but safer than through the couloir. Never the less it is still only for experienced mountaineers. It is good to have crampons and ice axe with you.
Tamar hut – Jalovec via Kotovo Sedlo pass: 6h
From the Tamar hut you follow the same path as in route 1), through Jalovcev Ozebnik couloir, till path leaves last greenery and begins to ascent scree slope bellow Jalovec. From here you can notice steep climbing shelf in the cliffs on the right. At the altitude around 1550m path turns right going far right using this shelf. When it ends path turns left climbing steeply till it reaches large rocky plateau bellow Kotovo Sedlo pass. Path gradually ascends, going around huge boulders, to the pass (2134m).
Path now turns left, reaching northwestern ridge of Jalovec. It enters the cliffs of Mali Jalovec through scree couloir and goes right, onto the side above Koritnica valley, which is deep bellow. Climb continues around Mali Jalovec and enters a couloir bellow the main summit, avoiding the edge of NW ridge, going to the right where it joins the path from Zavetisce pod Spicko refuge or other two Tamar hut routes. This section is very exposed but well secured by fixed ropes and pegs, without them this would be pure alpinism. From here to summit is just few minutes.
Route is beautiful, but only for experienced mountaineers