SW Face / Normal Route

Overview

This route is included in Dolomiten Die 100 schönsten Touren, Band 2, Westlicher Teil by Gino Buscaini and Silvia Metzeltin with Gaston Rébuffat. It was first climbed by E. T. Compton, T. G. Martin, and K. Schulz with M. Bettega on 4 August 1887. Much of the route is scrambling with short pitches III and a crux of about III+. The following excellent photos show the Kleine Fremeda (double topped tower on the far left) and the Grosse Fermeda (immediately to the right of Kleine Fermeda). The SW Face route on the Grosse Fermeda ascends the prominent face obvious in the photos.

Approach

Start at the Col Raiser (chair-lift from St. Christian, see main section) and walk up the path to Sass Rigais as described in the main section until you reach the base of the Grosse Fermeda S-face (1-2 h from Col Raiser).

Route Description

Route topo

At the left (W) side of the south face of the Grosse Fermeda, a kind of tower is visible. This tower is divided by a couloir from the main part of the face. Right of that tower and the couloir another couloir is located which is used for the regular route (it's the third couloir from the left). Scramble up some grassy rock and follow the described couloir using some easy but steep chimneys up to a small ledge (left of red rocks). Turning somewhat right (east) brings one up to an other ledge. Now the route leads up left until a prominent black water strip is reached. This is the crux of the route: a very exposed, steep but short rock step (called "Die Platte"). At the top of the rock step a ledge is reached. Turning left brings one at a small couloir that leads up to the saddle between a secondary summit and the main summit of the Grosse Fermeda. Following this leads finally to the summit.  

At "köpfert" on topo

Essential Gear

Slings, a small rack, rope, helmet

Credits

This page was originated by Stefan Weber aka kletterwebbi in 2003 and adopted by Fred Spicker in 2006.