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4197 Hits
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Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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51.00304°S / 73.00116°W |
Route Type:
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Technical rock and ice |
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Time Required:
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Expedition |
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Difficulty:
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VI, 5.10a, A2, 65 degree ice |
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Approach
Unknown by the author - possibly the same approach up the Rio Ascencio Valley and around to the west side of the Towers as the North Ridge route.
Route Description
Seven pitches of ice ( up tp 65 degrees ) and rock ( 5.7 ) lead to a col at the foot of the buttress. This is followed by many pitches up to 5.10a and A2. The route is a total of 1450 meters high or 4250 feet. First ascent November 1st, 1987 by the Italians Fabio Leoni, Giuseppe Bagattoli, Michele Cagol and Josef Espen. It took the first ascent party four days to climb to the summit on thier second attempt.
See the American Alpine Journal 1989, page 179 for more information.
Essential Gear
While I have no personal information on this climb, i would recommend full ice climbing equipment and large rock rack including cams, wired nuts and a small piton rack.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.