Southface Direttissima

Overview

The Direttissima is a classical aid climb over the big yellow roof in the upper third of the southface. The height difference between entry and exit is 850m, the height difference after leaving the Steiner route is approximately 450m.
It needs usually 2 to 3 days to climb this route.
First ascent was done by Leo Schloemmer & Peter Perner from 26th to 28th September 1967, after preparations with others.
Because the lower half of the Steiner route should be used to reach the entry (also other routes may be used to access it), the same can be said as for the overview of Steiner route (see there).

Approach

Same approach as for Steiner route (see there). Then follow the Steiner route up to the end of the "Salzburger ledge".

Route Description

After traversing the Salzburger ledge to the place where the route leads back again to the left (to reach the original Steiner route again), follow the ledge to the right until it ends, then climb straight upwards and around a corner to the right into the gorge below the big yellow overhang. Climb up in the gorge until you reach a steep snowfield, and ascend 3 pitches on it's left edge (45 degrees, pegs for belays in the rock), until a wide crack is reached (in fall line of the big yellow roof). Climb through the crack to an overhang (2 pitches). Follow the pegs and bolts across the overhang. After it through a narrow chimney, leaving it to the left to a good belay. Now easier to the left until a cave is reached (short pitch). Leave the cave to the right and follow the possibilities to the next belay below a dihedral. Through the dihedral to the peg belay at the entry of a good bivouac cave ("Gichthöhle", translated: "gout cave"). From the belay right upwards to the begin of the "yellow traverse" (belay). Follow the difficult traverse to the left, then follow the possibilities and the pegs over the big 30m roof, until a chimney is reached. Two pitches through the difficult chimney (UIAA VI, polished, often wet) to a scree platform. Now leave the chimney to the left (before a conspicuous yellow overhang is reached) and follow the possibilities through dihedrals and short walls (easier terrain now) to the ridge, a few meters east of the summit.

Essential Gear

~20 quickdraws (the more the better). A selection of 10 to 15 small to midsize nuts. Some pegs (angles or leepers, and knifeblades) and a hammer, because quality of existing iron varies wildly (if pegs are missing e.g. at the roof and you don't have some with you, a difficult retreat will be necessary). A helmet is an absolute must. Enough to drink and eat for at least 2 days, better 3 days. Shoes for the glacier descent.

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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