South Ridge, Wandfluegrat or Normal

Approach

Ascend by road and before the stream go left through the wood and climb SEwards over meadows to Alpe Bricola (2,415 m), ancient huts. Go on in the same direction above Glacier de Ferpècle. Finally ascend SE up to the N moraine of Glacier des Manzettes, traverse S across the moraines and the glacier tongue. Gain the edge asceding parallel to the slabs and block ridge of the Roc Noir. Climb over an ice top to Cabane de la Dent Blanche (refuge Roussier) placed at the foot of a rock ridge.

Route Description

From the hut, work up towards to the wide saddle called Wandfluelucke (3,703 m). Reach Dent Blanche S ridge, here flat and turn right towards a rocky ridge and P. 3,907 m. Traverse horizontally, climb directly (IV) or descend a little by W face and reach the snow ridge with big cornices to the right. Follow the ridge, that soon change to a rocky one, up to the foot of Grand Gendarme (4,098 m) Traverse horizontally about 40 m by snowy slabs in W face. Two posibilities:

1. Climb Grand Gendarme directly (III/III+, 3 iron posts)

2. Go on 30 m towards a snowy-icy couloir, climb carefully the notch over Grand Gendarme equiped with iron posts.

Follow the rocky ridge climbing some little towers. Turn fhe fifth one, called Gendarme de la Corde, traversing 20 m by the left side. Climb a 2 m wall following a (usually icy) groove up to the ridge. Ascend the last little tower (Gendarme Blanc) and finally continue the comb (cornices) on the left side to the summit cross.

Essential Gear

Crampons, ice axe and abseiling devices.

Images

View South Ridge, Wandfluegrat or Normal Image Gallery - 22 Images