Page Type:
|
Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
|
31.00000°N / 103.00000°E |
Route Type:
|
Scramble |
|
Time Required:
|
A few days |
|
Difficulty:
|
4 th class |
|
Approach
Get on the Chang PIng Gou trailhead at the ruins of the Buddhist monansty and walk for about 10 minutes on the wooden path until you see a bridge on your right. After crossing the bridge, follow the trail just past the corral and rock house, about 5 minutes. Here you leave the valley trail and climb into the basin under peak 2 (the second sister). You will hike up from 3300 m past timber line to 4450 m. This is the best place to camp, BC.
Usually horses are used to carry camp equipment up to BC and this makes the trail is verry muddy when wet. I recommend using horses if you are pressed for time.
Route Description
The climb goes north out of the basin beneath the 2nd Sister to the adjacent basin from which you can reach the col between peaks 2 and 3. You decend into the basin just low enough to traverse beneath the sheer cliffs forming southern portion of the basin.
Make your way up to the center of the basin. As you near the snow field taking you to the col, you must decide whether to proceed straight up the couloir to the col, or to go north and access the upper ridges via the ridge on the north side of the basin.
The couloir is 30-40 degree snow and rock. Easy going under good conditions, but can be very dangerous when icy. You reach the col at 5000 m and the summit is at 5355 m
The south-east ridge is a long 4th class scramble and most parties carry ropes for a few sections near the summit. Basic technical gear is highly recommended in case the weather changes and you need to decend in icy conditions.
Essential Gear
Take ice axes and crampons during year round if you intend to climb the couloir. Take a rope and some basic protection which you may need if you get caught in weather as conditions turn icy very fast. could be done with lightweight boots if the weather cooperates.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
kafirchen - Oct 29, 2004 5:24 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThe summer BC and autumn BC are different. The summer BC is usually sited in a small basin which can accommodate up to 10 tents, at 4300m.
From BC to C1, you need cross a ridge, tranverse a hugh slope of rocks. And, then climb 3 or 4 slopes. The C1 is just at the last plateau before the peak. At night, there are often falling rocks making scaring sounds.
In the summer, you can start from C1 between 6:00AM and 7:00AM. Depending on your fitness, you can reach the summit around 9:00AM. It requires some basic rock climbing in the summer, since there is often no snow up there, such as Aug 2003. But, the quality of rock is so bad and we do watch our steps up and down.
It's basic an easy peak if you get well acclimatised at BC.
BobK - Nov 13, 2004 5:06 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentKafir,
The route is the same, the only difference is where you stop to put up your tent.
- If you carry your entire kit all the way to C1, you have a two hour climb the next morning, weather permitting.
- If you stop at BC, you have a much shorted haul with your gear but an extra hour climbing up next morning.
I see no reason to carry camp gear all the way to C1. I think, on a good summer day, one could climb this peak from the parking lot and walk back before dark.
Bob
sibu1901 - Dec 30, 2005 10:48 am - Hasn't voted
Route Commentthe title "(Siguniang, Yaoniangfeng) > South-East ridge of Third Sister" causes some confusions here. First of all, 'Yaoniang' means the youngest sister/girl. Which in turn refers to the 4th sister. So it is wise to change the title to "siguniang, sanniangfeng" which truely means 3rd sister.
BobK - Jan 5, 2006 8:23 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentI would say 'talk to Kenz'o to see if he wants to split the page into 4 or more. There is certainly a lot more climbing going on in the area and when these peaks and rock routes get written up, they will need separate pages. For now, I think most people can figure it out.