Solaris

Overview

Easy climb, can be used for instructive purposes or solo climbed by experienced climbers. Nr 3 in this photo

Approach

From the refuges you traverse the base of Skorda Pitimaikou (Photo) in about 20 minutes. To return from the end of the route turn left (N-NE) and descend through easy snow slopes to the base of the route

Route Description

Pitches 1&2
Easy snow climb. Experienced groups can climb this section unroped. The first belay is made with snow anchors, the second can also be made on rock.

Pitch 3
The third pitch gets progressively steeper and is usualy on ice or frozen snow. They belay should be made on rock at the point the colouir starts getting narrow. The rock usually takes stoppers well, but if it is covered with verglass a couple of pittons can come handy. Make a good belay as the crux is immediately above it.
Pitch 4
Right above the belay 2-3m of vertical ice (depending on conditions: more snow makes the route easier) consist the routes main difficulty. The slope above is easy but you have to be carefull making a snow anchor because the snow can be very thin (because of the wind).

Essential Gear

Rope, harness, crampons, ice-axe (two tools preferably), 4-5 stoppers (medium sizes), 1-2 angles, 1-2 snow pickets or deadmans, slings, helmet.