Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.60480°N / 8.42480°E |
Route Type:
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Rock climb |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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4+, A0/5c |
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Approach
The climb starts in the Unteres Bielenlücke (2900m) which is approachable from the Sidelenhütte(1h) or from the Alber-Heim hütte (1h30).
Route Description
The route starts in a dihedral (4b), after 5 pitches you have reached the flat part of the ridge where you continue trough 'gehgelände' to a wall on the ridge (5c/A0). When you are on the next flat part you continue to a breach in the ridge (2 rappels). From the bottom of the breach you can continue the descent or you can go for the top on the SW side of the ridge(II).The descent starts at the bottom of the breach and follows 'wegspuren' on a rockband to a point where you have to make 3 rappels to reach the ground. You are on the Albert-Heim (NE) side now.
Essential Gear
Standard rock climbing rack supplemented with webbing/schlings, nuts and some cams. Never forget your helmet.Rappels are made for 50m single rope so no need there to take a double or twin rope.