SE Face, Normal

Approach

Until Sotres, turn right along the forest trail to Invernales de Cabao. It crosses river Duje at Puente (bridge) de Moyeyeres (880 m), a few curves on Ladera (slope) del Tejo to Cueto de Cuaceya. The trail that reaches Cueto Cuaceya via Majada de Canero (3.5 Km) is reserved to farm services. From point 1180 m (1 h from Invernales de Cabao) hike W to the wide Collado de Pandébano (1124 m). Turn left (SW) ascending the meadows to Majada de la Tenerosa (1320 m). There are some schacks here, one of them usable by climbers. Then follow (SW) a rock sculpted path to Collado (col) Vallejo (1580 m), descend a little to avoid Canal de Vallejo overhang and ascend between some big rocks labyrinth. The trail goes above Jou Lluengo to the foot of Naranjo de Bulnes (or Picu) N face, where joins to Canal de la Celada path. Finally hike (W) to Refugio de Urriello (2000 m). 3h from Pandébano parking or 4h from Invernales de Cabao.

Route Description

From Refugio de Urriello (2000 m) follow a marked path (NW) to Neverón de Urriello NE crest. Ascend on rocky ground and a steep chimney towards a Horcada de la Corona del Raso (2150 m). Push forward above the spur, turn right surrounding a hollow to the foot of Diente (tooth) de Urriello. Flank another hollow (jou) under Torres Areneras to Horcada (gap) Arenera (2280 m). Surround Neverón de Urriello W jou and flank on rocky ground (SW) Torre de la Párdida N slopes to Collado del Jou de Cerredo (2300 m). 2 h

From Collado del Jou de Cerredo (2300 m) avoid Torre Labrouche overhang descending to Jou de Cerredo, surround by its right side (SW) and ascend by a wide scramble gully. Follow signals under Torre Labrouche and Risco Saint Saud to the foot of Torre Cerredo SE face. Ascend on scramble to the steep gully (left side). Then go into the gully and turn right climbing the steep wall with some delicate sections to a cavity near Torre Cerredo summit. As Rafa Bartolome has explained the wall should be attempted to the right in a chimney (graded II), then turning to the left on a exposed traverse (low II) reach a cave wich connects to the foresummit (high I). Follow to the top easily. 3h 45 min.

Essential Gear

Basic gear for a scramble climb including helmet and rope. This is not a very safe route, it should be fit up.

Images

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