Sasso delle Nove - Sass dals Nü

Overview

Sasso delle Nove - Sass dals Nü 2904 m

In the Eastern sector of the extensive Sella massif, Boè Subgroup, we find a little known small group of three beautiful peaks enclosing to the North the Vallon basin: from left to right we see Sasso delle Nove 2904 m (Sass dals Nü in ladin), Sass dal Diesc 2916 m, the highest one, even if for a handful of meters, situated in the middle between the other two ones and Piz da Lec de Boe 2911 m, the Northernmost. These fascinating peaks overlook with their stunning East walls the Vallon basin, the adiacent Rifugio Kostner and the Val di Mesdì on the opposite side. 

Vallon summits annotated view

Sass dals Nü in ladin dialect, or Sasso delle Nove in italian, is the Southernmost peak and it's connected to the South with the Boè plateau by a slightly marked saddle, while to the East (Vallon) and to the West (Val de Mesdì) shows two large stunning walls that fall vertically from the broad flat summit ridge. To the North-East the peak projects an overhanging and bold ridge to Forcella del Vallon separating Sass dals Nü from Sass dal Diesc. 

All the three peaks offer some very profitable climbing routes, especially on the East wall, whose approach is facilitated by the Boè cable-car and the Vallon chair lift rising from Corvara in Badia, allowing to gain quickly altitude. The summit of Sass dals Nü is easily accessible along the standard route on the South ridge through which runs the Via Ferrata Vallon.

Getting There

The starting point to approach is the village of Corvara , located in the homonymous Val Badia.

Road access to Corvara in Badia

Road access to Corvara in Badia- From Bolzano: follow the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Bressanone and then follow the Val Pusteria road to Brunico. In Brunico turn to right, following the Val Badia road to Pedraces and La Villa. In La Villa take on the right the road to Corvara.

Approach to Sass dals Nü and Refuge Kostner

- from Corvara in Badia take the cable car "Boe" and the next Vallon chair lift to reach the Vallon Basin. Once at the upper station take the path n. 638, skirting at first Piz da Lec, then Sasso delle Dieci, getting the base of Sass dal Nu, which is separated from Sasso delle Dieci by a narrow and deep rift.

"Grande Civetta" in the sundown light seen from Vallon

- by walking from Corvara in Badia - Take the path n. 638 rising to “Boè” cable car upper station. From here the path gains the Boè lake and the Refuge Kostner

History

First summiters: the first known ascent was done by Alpine guide P. Pescosta with Joseph Alton and Adolf Gstirner on 1889, august 10th along the South crest - Probably the peak had been previously climbed by local hunters. 

Via Goedeke report

Sass dals Nü East Wall – Via Goedeke report (UIAA scale)

Summit altitude: m 2904
Difficulty: max V UIAA
Route length: 200 m
Exposure: East
First ascent: Richard Goedeke - Suzanne Hornburg 1989, august 8th
Starting point: Refuge Kostner or Corvara in Badia

A very advisable climb with a climbing style mainly inside, as the nearby Castiglioni-Detassis, with which the route Goedeke shares the first pitch. The pegs in place are few, it's useful to integrate with fast protections. The summit is beautiful and wild with vaste views over Sella Group. 

L1 Climb the chimney in common with the route Castiglioni-Detassis until you find on your left two old pegs. Continue up the black slab reaching a roof from which exit right and on easier ground reach the belay. III, IV+, V, 40 m. An intermediate stop on the two pegs is possible

L2 Climb the chimney for a few meters, then traverse on the left wall and exit the chimney. Traverse again and after a little grey wall and some steps reach the belay. IV, IV+, III, 30 m.

L3 Slanting left reach a gray wall, then enter the chimney and climb it entirely. Continue on the left for more carved rocks heading to the great black chimney. IV, III, 50 m.

L4 Head to the black chinmney on the left of the belay. Climb the chimney at first on the right wall then moving on the left. After a large hourglass move to the bottom of the chimney, still climb it and reach a wide where belay. IV, IV +, 50 m.

L5 Back in the chimney, climb behind a huge jammed boulder, beyond which on there’s the belay III, IV, 25 m.

L6 Climb on the right of the chimney as far as another wedged boulder. Overcome it on the right, then bend to the left. On exposed but easier ground continue to climb up the chimney, exiting on the summit ridge. Belay to be equipped. III, IV Scramble up the summit scree about 100 meters to reach the summit.

Descent: from the summit follow a track to the right (facing out towards the Vallon), getting to a waterfall. Here follow the Via Ferrata del Vallon reaching the Vallon. 40 minutes

Other routes

East Face

- Castiglioni - Detassis - Another fine classic route mainly running along chimneys
- Aerofobia
- Wunschland
- Nanitschka

West Face

- Ey de Net
- Castiglioni
- Fasana

Red Tape

No particular restrictions in climbing and hiking.

Hut and accomodation

Rifugio Franz Kostner 2550 m

Situation: located on a large debris terrace at the mouth of Vallon, under the walls of Cima Vallon and Pala delle Guide Pala, Sella Group
Open: 1 of July - 30 of September
Size: 33 pers.
Owner: C.A.I. Bolzano
Guardian: Emanuel Agreiter
Hut's phone 0039-3338759838
Guardian's phone: 0039-0471/836757
Getting There: from Corvara in Badia by foot or by cable car + chair lift

When to climb

The best season to climb goes from June to September

Meteo

Meteo Bolzano Alto Adige
Meteo Trentino
ARPAV Dolomiti Meteo

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO - Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA - Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebook and maps

Guidebooks and maps

Arrampicare Dolomiti Nord-Occidentali Vol I by M. Bertolotti - L. Galbiati – F. Vascellari Collana Mountain Geographic
Kompass f. 616 1:30000 Provincia di Belluno Arabba-Marmolada
Tabacco ff. 06–071:25000