RPC's WA Pass Area Climbs

The Goal

I will use this page as a personal logistical center for all the climbs Shirley & I have done at and near the Washington Pass area of the North Cascades. The fact that these formations lie beyond the national park proper, means that we were able to bring Blondie along on most of the trips here....well, except for the couple of routes that start on east side of Liberty Bell complex & climb over to the west side :)

Some of our earliest "alpine" technical rock climbs were done here, specifically things like the Beckey Route on the Liberty Bell and the South Arete on the next-door South Early Winters Spire come to mind. We've been back a few times since then and have ticked off some nice routes on both the Liberty Bell Group spires as well as on the nearby Wine Spires (Burgundy & Chianti) and Cutthroat Peak (I'll include these here as well).

Cutthroat Peak - South Buttress (5.8)

Photo Album.
An OK route with great views!
Beta Pages:
Cutthroat Peak
South Buttress

Liberty Bell - Liberty Crack (5.10- C2)

Photo Album.
Shirley & I climbed this in a push. Things go quickly esp. after the initial couple of aid pitches. We also brought a single rope to ensure we don't get lazy. One of the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.
Beta Pages:
Liberty Bell
Liberty Crack

Minuteman Tower - East Face (5.10-)

Photo Album.
I'd give the lower half (2/3rds?) a zero- to one-star vote and a solid four stars for the last part (did the non-chimney version of the top pitches). Overall, a very good route IMHO.
Beta Pages:
Minuteman Tower
East Face

Lexington Tower - East Face (5.9)

Photo Album.
A very nice route! Not as physical as some descriptions suggest (not so much mandatory wide struggles). Some cool wooden (piece of 2X4) fixed pro on the wide pitch. At the time, I thought one of the lower pitches (#2?) felt spicy but have been told since (by friends) that I'm full of shit. Yes indeed I am and probably even on this issue too.
Beta Pages:
Lexington Tower
East Face

North Early Winters Spire - Northwest Corner (5.9)

Photo Album.
People seem to love it or hate it (the wide-ish pitch is usually the determining factor). I give it five stars on a four star scale.
Beta Pages:
North Early Winters Spire
Northwest Corner

North Early Winters Spire - West Face (5.10+)

Photo Album.
Three of four stars but only because I thought that the Northwest Corner was better (a great route though!).
Beta Pages:
North Early Winters Spire
West Face

South Early Winters Spire - Southwest Buttress (5.8)

A good but somewhat forgettable route...or perhaps that's the problem, I just can't remember too much about it so take my quality rating with a chunk of salt.
Beta Pages:
South Early Winters Spire
Southwest Buttress

South Early Winters Spire - Direct East Buttress (5.9+ A0)

Photo Album.
Perphas it would get more stars from me if I were a better climber & freed the bolt ladders. Still, a nice line with some very cool positions high up above the hairpin turn!
Beta Pages:
South Early Winters Spire
Direct East Buttress

Burgundy Spire - North Face (5.8)

Photo Album.
A good line! Perhaps combined with Paisano (which we did not do), it might become a very good day out.
Beta Pages:
Burgundy Spire
North Face

Chianti Spire - Rebel Yell (5.10)

Photo Album.
Probably the best route thus far on this list! Stellar granite splitters and a memorable summit block.
Beta Pages:
Chianti Spire
Rebell Yell

North Early Winters Spire - South Face (5.7)

An OK route early in a climbing career, this is also the easiest line to the top of North Early Winters Spire. I think we did this as a third route in the area. At the time it did seem like good times.
Beta Pages:
North Early Winters Spire
South Face

Liberty Bell - Beckey Route (5.6)

A very nice route to do early in one's climbing career. Good protection. Interesting climbing. Great summit and views. Straightforward descent. That's all I got.

Beta Pages:
Liberty Bell
Beckey Route

South Early Winters Spire - South Arete (5.4)

A ho-hum route even at the early stages of a climbing career. The summit and of course the views are terrific though!

Beta Pages:
South Early Winters Spire
South Arete

Dog Tired

Images

View RPC's WA Pass Area Climbs Image Gallery - 32 Images