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8078 Hits
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81.17% Score
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13 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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45.37350°N / 121.6956°W |
GPX File:
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Download GPX » View Route on Map |
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Route Type:
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Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mixed |
Season:
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Spring, Fall, Winter |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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Wi3 M4 |
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Number of Pitches:
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2 |
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Grade:
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II |
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Route
Very adventurous climb. When in condition it provides a great full pitch of solid ice with a few crux sections along the way. Route starts out with easy ice and progresses to a steep and a little overhanging bulge (crux). When we climbed it, the bulge did not have great placements for feet and required some fun move (M4ish) to be passed. Ice flow was thick and offered solid protection opportunities. As with any ice climb, conditions could make it significantly easier or harder.
Climbing up the route. Beautiful ice in a superb location.I was also able to place a # 1 BD Camalot (Red) and # 3 Metolious (orange). Aside from these two placements I did not see other opportunities for rock pro. After the bulge is passed, follow more fun ice till you reach the snow couloir. It is a full pitch with about 50M of fun ice climbing in a superb setting. Belay from snow pickets in the couloir (which is not as steep as it looks from Cathedral ridge).
Follow the couloir right and over. Solo, simul solo, or belay from the top. Join the North Face route and continue to the Summit.
Anastasiya traversing towards the ice lineFA of route- Spring 2012 Vitaliy Musiyenko and Anastasiya Blagoveshenskaya
Getting There
The route goes straight up and to the right of the Cathedral Spire. Prominent snow couloir partly comes into sun and produces a water ice flow on the steep wall bellow it.To approach, traverse towards Cathedral Spire bellow Eliot headwall or hike up the glacier passing the shrund. In my opinion the easiest way to approach is to hike up over the summit via hogsback, drop down, and traverse under the Eliot HW.
We camped right across from the route in a beautiful setting.
our tent as viewed from the summit It could easily be done as a car to car climb. Good cardio day, great alpine setting, with a pitch of superb climbing...and NO LINE!
Protection
5-10 ice screws (depending on comfort level)BD #1 camalot (red)
Metolious #3 (orange)
2-4 pickets
Bob Burd - Aug 25, 2012 2:09 pm - Hasn't voted
Problem with GPX fileIt appears you saved the GPX file as a .jpg file instead. It must be a .gpx file to be useful. Try clicking on the "View route on map" link and you'll see the problematic result.
Vitaliy M. - Aug 28, 2012 12:47 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Problem with GPX fileIt was a mistake. Have not made any pages in a while and thought that box was for uploading main route image haha.
Bob Burd - Aug 28, 2012 10:11 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Problem with GPX fileSadly, there appears to be no way to delete the incorrect GPX file.