Point Five Gully

Approach

It is a long walk in to the North Face of the Ben - 2 hours minimum.
Park at the North Face car park at Torlundy and head up the forest track following the signs to Ben Nevis.
Upon reaching the CIC hut contour the base of Tower Ridge and head for the right hand side of Observatory Ridge to the obvious cleft pf Point Five.

The route is subject to spindrift avalanches when the windy and when disturbed by climbers higher on the route

Route Description

1. 55 metres - climb a steep ice slab (70 degrees) followed by a section of vertical ice to the first belay. Good peg on left wall

2. 50 metres - Climb up 10 metres to a narrow vertical chimney continuing by bridging or front pointing to a small belay ledge. Peg on right wall.

3. 50 metres - The Rouge Pitch which is very difficult in lean conditions. Runner on right wall half way up. Climb up continuously steepening ice to a very steep wall of sometimes overhanging ice with a difficult exit.

4. Follow easier ground with several short ice walls to the summit.

Essential Gear

1X 60 metre rope is ideal
Technical Ice axes
Sharp crampons
Helmet
6 X ice screws.
A Mixture of blade pegs
A Few medium and small nuts

Point Five - The Most Famous Ice Route In The World and justifiably so. Climbers cross the Channel and the Atlantic to climb this coveted route so make sure your early. Weekends will be particularly busy.

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Images

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