Peak Lenin - Razdelnaya route

Peak Lenin 2018

I participated in the Urubko Camp expedition organized by the very strong alpinist Denis Urubko (who joined us for the attack to the summit)

We where 8 guys and ladies (7 russian and 1 italian) and we used services of "Asia Mountains" agency (tents and food at BC and C1)

If you need, there's the possibility of using porters up to c3 (we didn't use them)... horses to C1 and then rucksack

5 of us + Denis climbed and reached the summit the 27th of August in 6h from camp 3

Here the calendar of expedition

08.04/05 flight to Osh

08.06 Osh

08.07 Osh

08.08 transport to BC

08.09 Acclimatisation on Peak Petrovsky

08.10 Acclimatisation to Tulpar-Kol

08.11 Camp 1

08.12 Yukin Peak

08.13 Camp 1 (snowfall)

08.14 Camp 2

08.15 Camp 2 - BC

08.16 BC

08.17 BC

08.18 Camp 1

08.19 Camp 2

08.20 Camp 3 and Peak Razdelnaya

08.21 Camp 3 and up to 6500 for acclimatisation

08.22 From Camp 3 to BC

08.23 BC

08.24 Camp 1

08.25 Camp 2

08.26 Camp 3

08.27 SUMMIT and down to Camp 2

08.28 Camp 2 - BC

08.29 BC - Osh

and than 2-3 days of rest in Osh

We anticipated the summit day by loosing a day off at BC to avoid the bad days ahead; the summit day was very cold and windy (photo) and I had frostbite on my face

BC is very confortable, C1 is good, C2 is very hot and dirty, at c3 there is nothing but snow

There aren't very difficult parts on the way up; big crevasses with ladders between c1 and c2, huge seracs before c2 (run away, don't stop), small and bastard crevasses between c2 and c3 (better use rope)

From c3 to summit are 1200mt d+ cause you have to lost 150mt on the shoulder just after c3 and obviusly 150 up at return (we took 6h from c3 to summit)

BE CAREFUL, Peak Lenin is easy but dangerous (5 deaths in 2018... avalanche, sickness, falls in crevasses), be trained, listen to your body  and eyes open always