Omega

Approach

Omega (19) 168m
The route traverses in from the right under the "BP Overhang" on the corner between the south-east and south-west faces and takes the obvious line of weakness through the lower band of overhangs onto a grey face. It breaks through a prominent vertical step in the upper band of overhangs and finishes up the orange faces above.

Start at the left-hand end of the ledge below the south-east face.

Route Description

P1. 23m "F1": Traverse to the left under the "BP overhang" to a small platform on the corner and continue around the corner on good rails to a narrow ledge.
P2. 15m "F2 and A0": Reverse the last part of the traverse and use a concealed flake and a peg to pull up into the recess below a ceiling. Traverse to the right across a face using a fixed peg for aid and move out under the overhang into a niche.
P3. 22. "F2": Climb up for 3m, traverse back to the left and climb a steep crack with some blocks in it to the level overhang. Traverse to the right past the overhang to a ledge below a short grey crack.
P4. 20m "E2": Climb the crack and continue up over large blocks into a cave-like recess. Move to the right and then back to the left onto a nose leadingto the broad ledge beneath the second band of overhangs. Walk to the left for 20 m to a wall forming a vertical step on the overhangs.
P5. 18m "G1": Use vertical hand jams, a peg and 2 nuts to move to the left across the wall and up to a small ledge at the base of a vertical crack on the corner above the overhang. Follow the crack to a stance on some jammed blocks where the crack narrows to a slit 5m below another overhang.
P6. 24m "E3": Traverse to a ledge on the right with a grey face above it, climb the exposed projecting corner and move back to the left belay directly above the previous stance.
P7. 16m "F2": Layback and jam up a tricky crack and then climb up easily past the pinnacle leaning against the face under an overhang to a large ledge on the left. Scramble 20m through a short steep band of rock to an undercut face.
P8. 30m "E3 and F2": Pull up through the overhang onto the face ("F2") and climb the face and a short recess on huge jugs to the top.

FA: Pete du Preez and Andre Schoon. November, 1978

Essential Gear

Standard Trad rack

Miscellaneous Info

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