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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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36.76730°N / 118.3725°W |
Route Type:
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Technical Rock, Mixed when snow-covered |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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5.6 |
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Approach
Head out on Kearsarge Pass trail; right when you reach Big Pothole Lake go Southwest to the beginning of Northeast ridge (the beginning of the ridge is obvious, but consult photos for further detail) - this is the beginning of the climb. I grateful to Bob Rockwell, of China Lake Mountain Rescue, for information on this route.
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Route Description
The route stay directly on the prominent NE Ridge. About 1 pitches of 5.2, 2 of 5.4, and 2 of 5.3 gets you to the summit pinnacle. The summit block is 30' of unprotectable 5.6 friction slabwhich gets progressively harder until the crux; the only way to make a sound belay is to have two people belay the leader from the east and west of the summitblock simultaneously, resulting in something like a keelhaul, if he happens to slip. There is a 1/4" bolt, and hanger, which is sound, for a rappell and an old bolt which should be avoided.
One way to get off the route, which is very fast, is to rappell off the NW face; this can cost you a couple of slings, but one pitch gets you down to scree, or snow, which you can hike back to Kearsarge Pass.
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Essential Gear
Rope, alpine rack, a bunch of slings.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.