Northeast Face

Approach

Start at the Mosquito Flat trailhead and approach to Dade Lake as for other routes. This entails a walk of about 2.5 miles. From the campsites at the southeast side of the largest of the Gem Lakes head south up a talus chute, then walk west to Dade Lake. Walk west, then south, heading up the basin east of the peak to reach the foot of the route.

Route Description

There are many route possibilities. For the easiest and most direct route, basically follow a line up the center of the face, aiming for the summit. Climbing is generally 4th-class with the odd bit of 5th and enjoyable, with great views. For a more exciting day, keep right as you near the top of the face. Top out near the top of the NE Arete (Rowell Route), then traverse south along a very exciting and photogenic catwalk. Scramble down and left to reach the upper part of the Ullrichs Route. From here, look for a Y-shaped crack. Climb the left branch of the Y (5.6), then ascend easier 5th-class rock to the summit. Great fun! 2 raps return you to walkable terrain.

Essential Gear

!65-foot rope, 4-8 nuts, a few runners, 10-12 crabiners, helmet, typical High Sierra clothing, including rain parka and fleece.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.