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Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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47.15140°N / 12.74310°E |
Route Type:
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Rock Scramble |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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F+ (easy) |
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Approach
Start in the Heinrich-Schwaiger Hut on the North side of the mountain. Climb easy but sometimes exposed rocks from the hut to the Kaindlgrat. When you reach the snowy ridge, put on crampons and ascend until you are on the West side of the Wiesbachhorn. You can then approach the Bratschenkopf from the NE or the E (if you have just climbed the Wiesbachhorn), by crossing the Kaindlkees Glacier.
*Please note that I climbed alone during this entire trip and the only thing which was "dangerous" in the minds of the other climbers at the hut was my unroped crossing of the glacier. I felt it was safe based on snow conditions and the terrain, but many did not agree that this was an acceptable risk.
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Route Description
At the base of the Bratschenkopf, where the Kaindlkees Glacier and the Wielingerscharte meet the rocks of the NE face you will want to switch into scramble mode, don your helmet and work your way up through loose scree and small boulders until you reach the summit. You will need to choose your own line as there was not well-defined trail when I climbed in 2002. Just be aware that going too far to the right (North), once you are on the upper portion of the face, will take you over the edge to your death. If it is foggy or snowing heavily, be aware! There is a summit log in the cross on the summit. Descend the same way. Be careful not to knock rocks onto people below and keep in mind, I climbed this route when there was no snow or ice on this face. Conditions (and difficulty) vary from day to day. It was "less than two hours" from the glacier to the top and back, not from the Heinrich-Schaiger Hut. Roundtrip from the hut, it would take perhaps 3.5 hours if you did not summit the Wiesbachhorn as well (which you should do if possible).
Essential Gear
Good boots and a helmet. The rock was loose but as there was no snow I left my crampons on the edge of the glacier. People teased me about the helmet but as I was alone on this climb, I thought it was not unwise to protect the head from any of the "little" rocks that might come sailing down on me...
Miscellaneous Info
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