Page Type:
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Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
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40.08800°N / 105.633°W |
Route Type:
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Mixed |
Season:
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Spring, Fall |
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Time Required:
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One to two days |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.7 (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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steep snow/M3 |
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Number of Pitches:
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5 |
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Grade:
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IV |
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Overview
Mount Toll does have a small North Face on it with two couloirs on each side. This submission explains the couloir on the left side of the face.Completing this route in the fall will include powder snow and much more rock. The spring the snow fills the couloir and, if desired, you wouldn't have to touch any rock.....but that wouldn't be as much fun.
Getting There
The hike is well marked to Mitchell Lake, then you are more on your own as the trees thin out. Just keep going up. You can't miss it.
Route Description
From Blue Lake head directly for the Paiute Peak/Mount Toll saddle. Before you get to the saddle make a left turn and start heading up the N Face. There are many different ways to do this face. The red line in the route image is the line we took. You should be able to do the entire line with out touching rock (in the spring), but that wouldn't be fun.
First pitch was class four rock. We didn't rope up until we hit the snow again.
Second pitch was steep snow ~ 55*. We added a little mixed section to spice things up.
Third and fourth pitch was all snow still at ~ 55*.
Fifth pitch, we decided to stay to the left into a difficult mixed section with moves up to 5.7. After the rock it was a walk to the summit.
Descend down the SE face. Watch for avalanches!
Essential Gear
60m rope. Medium to small nuts and cams. Good pro on the right or left side of the coulior.Other
We camped at Blue Lake for two nights. Both nights had amazing wind and we couldn't sleep at all. May be wise to camp lower with protection of trees, or you could build some snow walls, but they could melt quickly in the spring.