North Face

Approach

Climb as you would for the normal East Face route, but break North (right) just above the Worshiper and Idol (two prominant towers on the left of the route). A large grassy bench can be found that leads into a gully. This gully terminates at the notch between the Crooked Thumb and Teewinot proper. Some scrambling gets you to the grandstand shelf. From here, the North Face, North Ridge and Emerson Chimney routes all begin.

Route Description

The route follows a large ramp system up and across the North Face. The ledge is obvious, its the one with all of the huge shattered boulders. On the second or third pitch, you should find a fixed piton placed in a very fortuitous spot. This is the crux, I believe, because the pin is the only pro for this airy move. You will pass under the large Emerson Chimney about half way across the face. Once on the ridge that forms the Western edge of the face, 3-4 pitches of excellent rock lead directly to the summit. Descend the East Face.

Essential Gear

Rope is necessary, and an ice axe may be needed early season. You can assess the need for an axe from the valley by finding the gully that leads to the Crooked Thumb notch. Also be aware of the possibility for encountering snow on the upper East Face before leaving the axe in the car.

Miscellaneous Info

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