Overview
The north face of Pointe de Mourti is a beautiful, excellent climb, but only when it is in good condition. We climbed it in August, 2008 after some heavy snowfall, which covered almost all the ice and loose rocks. The face seldom sees any ascents. According to the owner of the Cabane de Moiry, we were the only one to climb it the whole season. The climb is of magnificent beauty and very enjoyable.
Getting There
You can acces the small, upper Mourti glacier basin and the base of the north face from the Cabane de Moiry in about two or three hours, by descending 200 m. to the Moiry glacier and climbing up on loose scree on the other side. A good alternative we used, is directly starting from the car park at 2350 m., at the end of the Moiry Lake road. Follow the left morene to a rock band (well marked), II+, leading to the upper basin and over the basin to the foot of the face.
Route Description
We crossed the huge bergschrund over a solid snow bridge. Climb straight up through enjoyable mixed terrain (no ice, if you're lucky) towards the couloir that leads up left of the seracs. The couloir (50 degrees) can be icy, especially toward the top. Cross another bergschrund and climb the 45 degree summit wall directly to the summit ridge.
Essential Gear
The gear you can expect for a north face. We used ropes only for one icy rope length. When it is snowy, it is good to solo.
External Links
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