Normal route from Cellorigo

Overview

The peak is just over the village of Cellorigo and the normal route to summit is very short because you can reach the summit in 30 minutes, but it's advisable walking a little more among the rest of the peaks and aiguilles enjoying of the place.

I use wikipedia and summitpost articles to translate the grades from UIAA to YDS: wikipedia, summitpost

Getting There

See main page.

Route Description

We can park in the entry of the village or 500m before near of the ruins of the church of Santa María del Barrio. In the village you walk in right side just to the church. Behind the church you walk a track to reach a place near of a house. You leave the track following some cairns in right side taking a path in direction to the wall. Obviously, the path goes to right side reaching a rocky wall easy (rock climbing grade F) to reach a small cross-path among the walls.

In first time (optional) you turn to right side to reach the Easten summit of the group. It's interesting because you don't need rock-climbing and the panorama is nice in East summit(890m).

You return to the cross-path turning now to left side walking a small path among the rocks. It's amazing because this terrace is not visible from the village. After a hard ramp you reach a small col. This point is very important because the access to summit is in right side and the path follows to front descending to a new terrace. You need a lot of attention searching in right side a path with a lot of small trees locating the important painting in the wall (it's difficult because the paint is white and from the distance is confuse). Crossing the vegetation you reach the entry to the chimney. You can leave your backpack here if you want.

The harder part of the chimney is the first section but it's really easy in dry conditions (it's not advisable with a lot of rain). You climb three small steps (rock-climbing F; YDS: 5.1) exiting of the first section to a narrow channel among the grass and rock. After the narrow path you reach the upper part continuing to right side to the summit. The summit (913m) is an incredible place surrounded by all the peaks of Peñas de Cellorigo.

You return to the col (where's you backpack waiting) continuing the nice terrace descending to a col ascending to the col of Aiguille West. The access to this aiguille is evident in right side but it's a little more complicated than normal summit (F.sup. rock climbing grade II; YDS: 5.2).

The best option now is walking across the peaks reaching the wide col of grass at West of the peaks. From this place you have a few of possibilities. You can return to village to left side but for me the better option is turning to right side descending to the green fields because you will have a new image of the full peaks. It has not path but you can see below the ruins of the old church descending to the road.

A few of words about the central summit (914m): it's not clear but some publications comment that this summit is the highest point of Peñas de cellorigo and the main summit is lower (913m). The maps don't show all the peaks and I don't know is higher or not. The normal route to this summit is harder than normal and I didn't climb it but a friend of mine wrote a gradation of II and III+ (5.3 or 5.4) from main summit.

Essential Gear

Nothing special. The chimney is very safe and even people without experience in rock-climbing can reach the summit without rope, but it's necessary a little bit of experience in mountain.

For rock-climbing to central summit you need a rope of 30m, harness, helmet and some friends (spring-loaded camming devices) with slings and carabiners.

External Links

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Images

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