Mt. Blacksmith, North Arete, 5.10-, III

Overview/Approach

The impressive northwest face of the remote (lessor known) Blacksmith Peak has three published routes as of 2020.  Two are on MP.com as of 2020:  the North Arete and the Forge, 5.11-.  We possessed a topo for a third route named Arm and Hammer, 5.11, which was our original objective. But the result ended similar to at least two other parties who have attempted to climb the route.  We bailed after trying to suss out the first pitch.  After 100’ up what we felt was the first pitch on the topo, the overhanging corner I entered got dirty and difficult to protect.  At the entry to this corner, I had passed old bail tat but eventually retreated to that same slung horn and rapped. 

No worries as we knew at a minimum, we could switch to the more straightforward North Arete route, climbing the entire formation from east to west.  The North Arete offers two outstanding roped pitches in addition to typical 5^th class ridge climbing.  I felt comfortable in approach shoes soloing the rest of the route with exception to those two pitches.  How MP.com and/or the FA (early 70’s!) have this route divided into eight roped pitches I am not quite sure.  Some 3^rd or 4^th class scrambling up an obvious gully at the east end of the northwest wall lands you at a 5^th class traverse up and right to the base of a narrow through chimney (what MP.com refers to as the “Hawk’s Nest” which is below a feature on the ridgeline referred to as the Hawk’s Head)  (see photo).  On MP they describe several 5.8 climbing sections to reach the interior of this narrow through chimney, but I did not feel that grade climbing up to the base.  We roped up below the chimney on an obvious ledge and I led into the chimney, locating and following a finger crack on the south wall (5.9) and stemmed out the southwest corner of the massive chock stones. With a 70m rope, you can continue up to a flat spot on the ridge proper.  The next pitch offered solid 5.9-5.10- steep crack climbing for another 100’ and then I switched to approach shoes and essentially soloed the rest of the route.  There is a small squeeze tunnel on the ridgeline that is better passed on the left.  Stay to the ridge proper as you continue vs getting sucked up and left (even though that looks more probable).  Near the summit, you traverse right and climb up a 5.6 corner/ramp back left, step across and climb to the summit.  The summit register is located below the summit on the south side. 

The approach to Blacksmith Peak is no doubt the crux of your trip compared to any route you plan to climb.  There is zero evidence of a climber’s trail.  As with most backcountry approaches sans trail, we discovered animal trails on our return that made more sense than our initial approach.  I will do my best to guide you to that option.  You gain approximately 3000’ to the lake passing three potential bivy sites along the way (not counting the lake itself).  Plug in the GPS coordinates I provided of the peak and use your favorite app to track your progress.  Unfortunately, I have yet to progress that far in my back country life (no phones, Spots, etc).

From the massive RV campground at Twin Lakes (you have to pay to use their parking), cross the bridge to the south as you would for the Matterhorn trail, except stay right and follow the in-let creek (Robinson Creek) on its south side heading west.  Look for a fire road up and left near a block-built restroom building.  Follow that fire road for no more than 5 minutes.  Where it turns to single track, at that juncture, start the slog up the steep hill on your left (south).  Angle high and a bit left if anything.  You will not follow Blacksmith Creek very close, but rather stay high to the east of it to avoid dense brush.  Ideally, you will not even see the creek (although you will hear it) until much higher up.  If you can locate one of the animal trails early on, you can keep circumventing southwest on intermittent faint trails that connect through the forest avoiding much of the potential dead fall that covers this hillside lower down (between you and the creek). 

Eventually you come to Avalanche Creek which feeds into Blacksmith Creek.  Cross it easily and angle southwest between cliffs on your left and the river down below on your right.  If you are lucky, on the other shore you will find an old tree (2020), one of the broadest of its kind.  Cross two large talus fields to where a wall comes right down to Blacksmith Creek.  You can bivy on the left on a cool grassy ledge or continue up canyon, near the creek on the east side.  Cross another large talus field and gain slabs above.  Atop this section of the creek is a larger bivy area with several flat spots and close access to the creek (9200’).   Another hour (utilizing the west and east sides of the creek) takes you up to the lake below the peak which is the closest bivy to the northwest wall (south end of lake, 10,100’).  Half way to the lake from the before mentioned bivy site, is my favorite bivy spot, a walled in area of grass and flowers offering flat soft ground to sleep on near the creek, with the lake maybe being 20 minutes away from this site.  To reach the base of the climbs takes yet another hour from the north shore of the lake.  Five hours from the car to the base of the peak if you successfully follow the path of least resistance and of course are fit.

The North Arete starts on the left skyline of the peak.  Your ascent and descent will completely traverse the peak from left to right, descending a rotten gully at the west end.

Route Description

1st Pitch- 100’-5th/ When you start to ascend the gully at the east end of the peak, you  eventually start to traverse right and up to a ledge below the through chimney.  Some rope up for this section and have labeled it 5.8. I felt it was more of a 5^th class scramble.

2^nd and 3rd Pitches- 230’-5.9/ One of two pitches on the route we actually roped up and placed gear in.  Enter the chimney and discover a finger crack on the south wall.  It takes all the gear you want to place.  This is sort of a knee/squeeze chimney affair.  I always feel secure in such chimneys but some might not have the technique down.  Near the top are several massive chockstones. Stem out and right heading south on ground below grade.  Continue all the way to the end of a 70m rope to land a significant flat belay ledge on the ridge proper.

4^th Pitch- 130’- 5.10-/ Not much 5.10-, if any, but the pitch offers steep and sustained crack climbing, fists, hands and fingers.  Climb the obvious twin crack system left of ridge line proper to any preferred stopping point on the ridgeline above.

5^th-8^th Pitches- 5^th/ I essentially soloed the rest of the ridge in approach shoes.  You come to a squeeze tunnel of sorts, bypass it on the left. Stick with the ridge proper when in question and avoid the easier looking ground up and left. You pass the Hawk’s Head as well as a spindly looking (massive finger) feature on the ridge line.  After that, keep an eye out for a traverse out right to the base of a left leaning corner ramp.  Climb it to its top and then step across and finish to the summit.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Downclimb the south face several meters and traverse out west along chossy ledges.  Continue descending when you come across obstacles but always trend west when possible.  Eventually you hit the ridge line proper again and can easily descend the left side to the col/notch above a dirty gully.  Descend the gully back north avoiding snow and ice in even August.  The ground is loose and dangerous as most young alpine gullies are.  At the bottom, traverse back east so you can make the nominal descent back to the lake. 

Essential Gear

Single to #3 plus shoulder length slings.  The #2 and #3 will help you on the 5.10- pitch.  Helmets are a must on this one via the ascent and descent.  Route gets late afternoon sun.  This mountain is close to the front of the eastside and stays relatively warm in comparison to most back-country objectives. Can obtain water along the entire approach almost to the base of the wall. Biner approach shoes up and over for the descent gully.  Leave packs at the lake.