Main Chute on West Face

Overview

This is the easiest route up Weavers Needle. I would recommend the climb for the location rather than the quality of the climb.

Getting There

From Phoenix drive about 31.5 miles East on US Highway 60 to Peralta Road. Turn left and drive 5.6 miles on dirt to a fork. Bearing left here, drive 0.6 miles to a fork. Bear right and drive 0.9 miles to the end of the road at a parking lot. Start the hike here.

Two trails begin at the N end of the parking lot. Choose the trail on the right, hiking about 50 yards to the junction of the Bluff Springs Trail and the Dutchmans Trail. Bear left on the signed Bluff Springs Trail and follow it 3 miles N to a junction with the Terrapin Trail. Turn left on the Terrapin Trail and hike to Bluff Saddle. Hike cross-country through brushy terrain to the base of Weavers Needle.

Route Description

Rope up at the base of the west side of the rock. Climb two pitches of fourth class to a notch between the two pinnacles. At the start beging climbing about 20 feet to the right of the chute leading to the notch. There is one piton and numerous rocks to tie long slings around for the first pitch. At the top there is a steel spike with a sling that can be used in conjunction with natural protection. Climb the south face of the north (higher) pinnacle up a short 3rd class pitch. Follow second and third class rock up and left to the summit.

Essential Gear

Two 50 m ropes, long slings for looping around natural protection, biners, harnesses, and helments. Helmets are essential due to the loose rock.

External Links

Alex Amies Photos

Images

View Main Chute on West Face Image Gallery - 2 Images