Luibisbodenfall (WI 4/4+)

Overview

The Luibisbodenfall is a nice climb with 5 good pitches of ice. It starts right in the town of Stillebach. The first pitch is popular with courses, so get there early and head up for the rest of the climb. The second pitch is especially good, a full 50 meter ice shield that is broad enough to provide several different lines. The climb should be reliably in through January and February as it's located in a steep-walled shaded valley. The famous "Monster Line" (WI6) is right across the street, giving you something to think about.

Getting There

Find your way to Stillebach, Austria. It's about an hour southwest of Innsbruck. On the A12 Autobahn travelling from Innsbruck, take the Pitztal exit, travelling south to Wenns, then continue on road L16, marked with signs for Sankt Leonhard in Pitztal. After Sankt Leonhard, Stillebach is just a few minutes further south.

As you drive in you'll see the fall on your left. There should be some parking places on the south edge of town. A 10 minute walk gets you to the base of the route.

If you like, the lower 3 pitches can be skipped by walking back to the north edge of town, then following a forest road that goes up on the north side of the falls. The forest road dead-ends just a few meters from the top of the third pitch.

Route Description

Pitch 1: Climb easy WI4 for 50 meters until the angle levels off at some trees with slings. It is broad enough to be able to choose several lines.

Pitch 2: After a 100 meter walk up easy terrain you'll reach the base of the 2nd pitch. In cold conditions when the climb hasn't been overrun by other climbers, it's quite challenging for the grade (WI 4/4+), or at least it deserves the 4+. Climb 50 meters to a broad level ice shelf, usually adorned with an Ablakov anchor or two. Belay here.

Pitch 3: Climb a WI4- step (on the right), or WI3 on the left which is much easier to a few meters of walking, then a final WI3- step to a small trail next to the terminus of the road mentioned in the "Getting There" section. 50 meters.

Pitch 4: Walk for about 200 meters up easy creekbed terrain (careful, some trees fallen across the creek can really snag your rope), to an impressive ice shield above. Climb 50 meters of WI4 on the fairly broad shield. Note that icicles can fall on you on the left side, especially in afternoon sun. To reach a tree anchor, it's better to have a 60 or 70 meter rope. We belayed from ice screws in a corner near the top of the lower shield.

Pitch 5: Walk a few paces to a final steep wall (WI 4/4+) of 20 meters. Quite steep and fun! Slings on a tree provide an anchor.

Descent:

Our guidebook mentioned walking off on the left from here to reach the road several hundred meters below. However, we made two double rope rappels, first from the tree, then from an Ablakov anchor in the middle of pitch 4. Then we walked down the creekbed to the road, and followed the road back to town (10-15 minutes).

Essential Gear

Ice tools, 8-12 ice screws. Double-ropes for rappels. Bring an Ablakov anchor creation device and some slings.

External Links

Eisklettern in Tirol - a good guidebook to ice in the region.

Images

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