Liberty Ridge crux on May 30, 2007

Liberty Ridge crux on May 30, 2007

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Liberty Ridge crux on May 30, 2007

Myself leading the crux of the route. I placed one screw for the bottom belay and then 3 ice screws on the 40 meter pitch of ~ 55° ice. Near the end of the 1st pitch, the ice disappeared and I encountered crusty, hard snow. I made the upper belay anchor with 2 pickets. If you climb Liberty Ridge now (i.e. early June 2007), I suggest you bring 2 pickets & 2 ice screws per climber. Two tools for whoever leads the ice. They proved indispensable up there: May 30, 2007 (Photo: Brad Mastros).

forjan

on Jun 4, 2007 1:28 am

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Lat/Lon: 46.85280°N / 121.759°W

Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing

Image ID: 298539

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93.35% Score
42 Votes

Comments

forjan - Jun 5, 2007 1:59 am - Hasn't voted

Re: WOW

Thanks, Tina! Thanks Deb! Thanks Dave!

rhyang - Jun 4, 2007 12:06 pm - Voted 10/10

Good stuff !

Sounds like the Kautz Glacier last July ... similar pitch of ice, though not as steep - maybe 50 degrees at most. I led with one tool and one alpine axe. At the top I had to belay from a couple of (shaky) pickets... big fun !!

I bet this pitch is higher up though - the steep stuff on the Kautz is probably between 11500 and 12000' ... and I sure wasn't leading while carrying all my overnight gear on my back !

forjan - Jun 4, 2007 1:02 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Good stuff !

It's a different world when you're leading 55 degree ice with a 40+ pound pack on your back and at 13,600 feet. Also, I waited over 1 hour at the upper belay (check my Rainier summit log). All in all, I wouldn't have it any other way! HA!