Liberty Crack

Introduction

I have to first apologize about the lack of pictures. We had a camera in the car but it somehow didn't make it into the packs. The limited pictures I do have are from the summit, and were taken with my iPhone. Yes iPhones can rock climb too...

Hope you enjoy the trip report sans pictures. I have tried to make everything as detailed as possible.

The "getting there" to the "doing the climb" part

Night before food

Ashley and I decided to eat Tequillas Mexican food. Went with my Brother and his wife. I Had Arroz con Pollo (Rice with Chicken) and a huge Margarita on the rocks. Didn’t finish up there until about 8:30.

Night before packing

I was way behind on packing. Didn’t get started until after we got home from dinner. Tom had emailed a few times from Chelan with suggested gear to bring. I decided to load 1 set of cams from my smallest C3 to my largest C4 (#4 boat anchor). Took all of my remaining carabiners from the other set of cams (Trango superflys) and replaced the heavier BD biners on my draws. Ended up making 6 complete draws with enough biners left over to replace a few single items. Grabbed my micro nuts and 1 set of normal nuts. Replaced each big D biner with superflys. Grabbed 4 - 12” slings and 2 - 24” slings. Borrowed a camelback bladder from my Dad. 100oz. Went to the store and got a 6 pack of Longhammer IPA and 6 pack of Pyramid Hefe. Also got some cheese, ritz crackers, and cotto salami. Also some Epsom salt for the day after.

Night before sleep

Do you remember Christmas when you were little? I was literally that excited! Kind of nervous at the same time. This was going to be the biggest climb I have ever been on. Went to bed at about 10:30, but really didn’t fall asleep until midnight. Even then I was up 2 more times before my early AM alarm.

Wake Up

4:00 AM. Why the hell am I awake? Can someone please explain this to me... please? Even worse I brought this on myself...I hate it when I am my own pain in the rear. Typically it would take an act of congress to get me out of bed before 7:00. And at that it would be one of those bills that would take years to pass and a committee would be immediately formed afterwards to the analyze the success of said bill. Anyways I am way tired from an almost non existent REM cycle. Hop in Ashley's car with gear. Crank the music and drive to Wal-Mart in chelan.

Drive to Chelan

Took the East side up 97. Don’t really remember a lot of it. Was probably asleep. I think I remember thinking that a part of the road looked like where the tunnel went through on the other side of the river, but then it wasn’t. Loud Music. Energy drink. Repeat.

Meeting with Tom

Our meeting time was a precise time between 5:15 and 5:30 AM. We were both on time, but I got there first. HAHA. Had time to run into Wal-mart for the facilities. Came out and Tom was pulling up in the orange mobile. Perfect! Most of my stuff was a simple gear transfer because it was all in a pack. I had one loose bag. Ready to go. Tom was excited as usual. I was trying to hide my tiredness by matching his enthusiasm. Although I was really excited too. Can’t honestly say I remember what we talked about. Had to stomach his spraying about how much sleep he got last night. That would turn into a necessary stop into winthrop for the bathroom. We did stop at Winthrop to grab a quick snack. I also wanted some Tums and needed to use the rest room.

Winthrop to North Cascades Pass

Tom stopped at a camp ground half way up to go for round 2 on the facilities. I was good and played games on my iPhone and tried to sneak in a few seconds of shut eye. Lots of deer! We finally arrived at the trail head around 7:00. Think we took about 45 minutes looking around, checking weather and racking up. We put our harness’ on at the car. I took a much scaled down version of what I brought. C4’s from 3 to .75, 6 of my draws, my belay device, a daisy chain, a metolious PAS, 2 BD Lockers, Jumars, aiders, and slings. Tom took triples of the metolious cams, a bunch of free biners, slings, aiders, a bunch of draws, and a set of nuts. We took 2 ropes. 1 lead and 1 7mm trail. Both of us had camelbacks with bars and clothing options. We also both had our helmets and rock shoes.

Hike to base

We started the hike at 7:45. The hike started off pretty good, but immediately turned to a steep grade. I felt the elevation a bit in my lungs, but it wasn’t desperate. I immediately realized I didn’t need my jacket nor my hat. Way too warm. Tom was raging up the hill with me on his heels. He started to pull away from me after we both stopped to change clothing situations and I took longer than he did. It turned kind of loose for about 10 minutes. The hardest part of the whole climb was a huge snow field at the base of the spire. It left a little moat squeeze chimney stem that was difficult and slick at best to negotiate. There was an odd rope laying in the middle of the snow field that had both Tom and I puzzled. As we gained altitude the thing started to look like it fell there, but you can’t say for sure. Much to our surprise there was absolutely no one that we could see on the route. We had it all to ourselves on a weekend! Sweet!

Pitch 1

1 Last look at the weather and a quick re-organize and we started a small traverse segment. The first pitch was actually a dicy left traverse to the actual first pitch. Tom lead with some awkward run-outs to finally arrive in the small corner of the normal route. I belayed Tom sitting on the snow and my behind was frozen by the time it was my turn. Right before going I slammed the half can of diet pepsi Tom left me at the base. I then tried to crush the can against the rock only to have it twist at the last minute and slice my right ring finger open. Profusely bleeding I started the pitch. I must have put a nice coating of blood on just about piece of gear we had and every key hold on the wall. This thing was a gusher. Got to the top of that and Tom and I taped my finger. Doused it in chalk. Then fired on.

Pitch 2

Tom lead the next pitch which headed right into an awkward corner with a really hard move on it. Probably 5.11 for sure. This pitch continued up getting thinner little by little until the stance just under the Lithuanian Lip where a set of bomber anchors lay waiting. I jugged up to Tom and we switched out the belay. Not terribly fast, but efficient for all the gear we had to move around.

Pitch 3

This was a pure aid pitch up over the roof called the Lithuanian Lip. Absolutely fantastic to watch Tom aid it. This was my first experience with any kind of aid leading. There were a couple pitons up into the roof and a few bolts in a corner where you had to do the roof moves. A fixed copperhead was the first piece in a seem heading out the roof length. Then to another fixed piece out further. This was a fun little swing out into space to watch. Tom dangled there for a few minutes getting everything ready for getting over the roof then fired it. I think the roof gave him a small amount of trouble, but he quickly took charge of it. Tom aided up a bunch more to a Bomber set of anchors where he fixed for me. I then jugged the pitch. I was really thankful to have practiced jugging over pieces to un-weight them in Tom’s gym a couple nights earlier. That was exactly what I had to do there. Tom did a really good job slinging everything so that I didn’t have too much difficulty. The last piece before getting over the roof was an awesome swing out! Looking at the Topo the nights before I had become a little nervous about being able to do this, but now that it was right in front of me, I felt ok about it. I remember getting over the roof was difficult because the jumar didn’t want to move while pinned against the rock. I think Tom yelled down that I was scratching my Jumars somewhere in there. HAHA.

Pitch 4

Pitch was aid to 5.10 climbing for Tom on Lead. He would fire the thing as if it didn’t exist as usual. I believe this was the pitch that had the copperhead with the frayed wire to the good bolt then to 3 bad pins in a row. Tom totally willed himself through it. That was a scary moment. We both decided that it would be inevitable those would blow if parties continued to ignore their condition. The bad thing is when one does blow the fall isn’t particularly good. I am sure an ankle would be hurt if not more on a small ramp ledge just below. Anyways. I jugged up behind him and cleaned with little issue.

Pitch 5

The chimney pitch. At one point Tom asked me if I wanted to lead the thing and I said yes. This was a definite no now. I don’t know why I still let 5.8 sink in as easy. 5.8ma. Tom fired up the pitch pushing through a few spots that were run out. I followed him up and found it to be quite strenuous for its supposed grade. I was probably feeling a bit tired from the jugging earlier as well. None the less the pitch went for both of us and we are atop the 5th pitch.

Pitch 6

This is the pitch that goes over the “Rotten Block”. Tom decided he would try and combine a couple of pitches together by passing the block instead of belaying on top of it. This would be a really good idea as a team was about to appear out of nowhere and join in mid pitch just below the block. Tom finally got to the Belay which consisted of 2 finger sized cams and 1 piton up high in a seem and backed up by 2 bolts below Tom’s feet. 1 of the bolts was a total rust bomb and the other was an asca bolt. Bomber. Tom called down “On Belay”. I sat there for a minute messing around with gear. I had actually gotten pretty cold at the Belay and was wearing out mentally allowing some of those “can’t” demons to let their way in. I was pretty tired as well. So I called up to Tom and asked him to Fix the rope so I could just Jug the pitch. He couldn’t hear me. So I called up to the party that was parked halfway and asked them to relay up the message to Tom. I finally hear a “Jumar when ready” echo off the rocks and begin my way up. This pitch was tough for me. I was in a tough spot mentally and physically was getting some pretty bad arm cramps. Passing the other team I just tried to stay consistent. All of a sudden I felt pressure to move faster. Maybe this would be the first of things to help the second wind come. I jug jug jug past them and at one point pretty much had my armpit in one of the guys faces. Poor guy. I get the block and do little pendulum out right then finish onto the ramp Tom is on. The belay change-over is pretty swift. I had a little blunder that caused Tom to drop about 6 inches. He was on the finger gear above and clove hitched into the anchor I was on below. I stood up and it lowered him down just a bit. Absolutely nothing could have happened but I still felt really bad.

Pitch 7

Tom started with an awkward step across move with odd angle stemming and then awkward full finger locks to a couple of weird hand jams. You then have to kind of mantle onto this left trending ramp. Tom would lead it out until we were out of rope and setup a belay on a horn near a small ledge system. I go on belay from Tom and wait at a small flake while the leader from the party behind comes and sets up his anchor. It would have been harder for him to get his anchor setup If I moved so I just stayed put and let him get setup. Then I stepped over his anchor and started the step out. It was kind of pumpy, but the moves were solid. The leader of the group behind us was very supportive and shouted encouragement! Got that and into the left traverse to find the coolest underclings and huecos on this crystalized granite. It was beautiful Climbing. There was the perfect amount of everything there. A small squeeze section between a huge flake and the main wall would bring me up to Tom. The belay for me was below him in this perfect tree built to sit on.

Pitch 8

Tom rocketed off and did a fantastic job leading this last pitch. We were kind of uncertain if this would be the last one or not, but it turned out great! The belay was neat because both of the guys from the Team behind us made it to me before Tom was done. We chatted and had a great time. When Tom yells down “On Belay” I am excited to get moving because of freeing the last pitch. I flaked the trail rope and started my way up. It turned out to be an amazing layback finger lock to stemming finger lock ramp like half pitch then go to a steep 5.9 jams and incut section then finish out on a 5.4 bouldering ramp. I thought the laybacks and finger locks were really strenuous but I was pretty tired too. When I got to the top I would find out that I actually was simul-climbing with Tom and that little pause to flake the rope was literally him hanging on not belaying. Love it! Nothing but grins from here on out. We have done the climb!!! We un-rope for the last little hiking/ bouldering section. The exposure is gone and a fall here would be just like taking a fall in your living room while trying to miss the furniture. About 10 minutes and we are at the summit.

Meeting at the top

I got to the top and Tom is already sitting down with his shoes off. I am greeted by a very warm smile and a “congratulations” from Tom. And of course a great handshake. Probably in the top ten of the most meaningful handshakes in my life. I take a seat and rummage through my pack. Well what do you know, there is beer in here. Along with cheese, crackers, and the salami. Cheers Tom! Great work dude! Awhile later Tom and I are still grinning ear to ear and half silently conversing when we are joined by a man named John and his 12 year old Nephew who had done the Becky route. “Welcome to the top!”. A short while after that we are joined by the party that was right behind us. Can’t remember their names, but they were really cool! Mosquitos were kind of bad so we finished our beer, took a couple of photos and packed up.

Rappels

We reversed the hiking bouldering / section up top and came to the belay for the Becky route. We were the second party in line for the rap. 2 short raps and we are in the middle of the chossy draw coiling rope.
Hike out
I think the hike out was about an hour and the chossy steep section was really not my favorite, but it slowly eased off. We then joined in with the blue lake trail which was a highway in comparison to the sketchy crap earlier. I jogged until I caught Tom. Scree scares me and I was really slow in comparison to Tom. A stop on this trail would mean an instantaneous simul biting by about 75,000 mosquitos. We hiked for a grand total of about 45 minutes and made the North Cascades Highway to begin our walk back over the pass summit. At this point I am swinging my hips to keep my legs moving forward. Gear a clanking we see a white truck pull up and ask us if we want a ride. We of course say yes. Tom asks the driver if he climbs and his reply was a classic “Hell no”. He drops us off at the car and we say our thank you’s. This was a perfect end to an amazing climb. I think at that point it was pushing 9:00 pm. Feels really good to get the harness off finally! We drive out to Winthrop and Tom and I call back home to let everyone know we made it!

Drive to Chelan

A short stop at a gas station store in Winthrop where I doddle trying to find my wallet and we are on our way. It is dark and winding as usual all the way to Pateros. I think I was near asleep the whole time, but wanted to stay awake to help look for deer. Get back to the car in chelan and decide that sorting gear is out of the question. I offload some essentials shake hands with the Mighty Hummerchine and part. Only to figure out my wallet is again lost and have to flag Tom down to retrieve my wallet out of his car.

Drive to Wenatchee

I was asleep. I don’t remember anything but talking to Ashley a couple of times. I think there was a whole bunch more loud music and an energy drink.

Conclusion

Absolutely a fantastic day. Beyond doubt the top climb I have been on thus far. A full day with Tom couldn’t have gone any better. All in all we would combine 4 pitches to reduce the total pitch count to 8 instead of the topo’s suggested 11 or so pitches. I remember thinking beforehand about how I would deal with the exposure. After the fact the only thing I noticed about the exposure was this euphoric sensation of it being really cool and almost unreal. The snow field looked amazing from above and it just had this different planet feeling. Like you were staring at the moon through a small telescope. I think that this was probably the single most exerting event of my life. And I am certainly sore enough today for it to qualify. I have semi-scraped knees from Jumar spastics. My hands are kind of sore and a bit scratched. I have a cut on my finger which I nearly bleed to death over diet pepsi. I don’t even like diet pepsi. The insides of my legs are bruised from my leg loops on my harness and all the hang time. My arms feel like lead and my legs are stumpy. Other than that I have never felt better! Ok I’ll do it again, just give me a couple of days to recover Tom…

A little Note

Hummerchine,
Thank you for being such a great mentor and amazing friend. You have a true talent in climbing that is an inspiration to many. I can’t wait to see what we do next! Thanks for dragging my slow rear end up there! I’d like to dedicate this climb to you for such an amazing summer, which I wont soon forget.
Wienerdude

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