Approach
From Mischabel hut to the base of the ice face. We have seen this beautiful face from the Weissmies a day before and this beauty made us decide to climb it.
Route Description
The bergschrund at the bottom may be a time consuming obstacle. Go directly in one straight line to the top of Lenzspitze. Difficulty may vary according to the condition. We had ice at the lower half and walked up on the front teeth of the crampons . The upper half was made of powder snow. In the middle it was an awkward mix of ice and snow. See photo. 3 hours from the foot of the wall to the top.
I looked at the wall in 2006 and discovered that that lowest part (ca. 100m) of the ice wall is melted. It is probably more difficult to climb it today.
Essential Gear
Crampons, ice axe, ice screws. You must be able to walk on two tooth like a ballerina for several hours. The wall is safe and not dangerous.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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bbirtle - Apr 10, 2006 10:45 pm - Hasn't voted
N, NNE, or at least NEHey not a bad start to a page about this route but it's not the East face - I just checked the map again to confirm, but the face is clearly NE or N - nowhere close to E. The BAC guidebook titles it "North-Northeast Face (Dreieselwand)" which I think is the most accurate. Also little nitpick but change "crevass at the start..." to "bergshrund at the start..." although it's obvious what you mean either way.
alpenkalb - Apr 13, 2006 1:45 pm - Hasn't voted
NNEYou are right. Thank you!