La Grivola north east ridge

Love at first sight

I remember it very well. It was back in the summer of 2005 that I made first steps in the Val d'Aosta. I was participating in a trek around the Grand Combin and after crossing the Col de Champillon the valley was revealing its majestic grandeur. This region was rather unknown to me, but that day I decided to get back here soon in order to discover every inch of it. Since then I came back there every time I had the opportunity. The diversity, authenticity and purity of the Val d'Aosta is what was appealing me over and over again. During these visits I've got intrigued by the appearance of one particular massive that can't be denied when entering the valley. A solid pyramid dominating its surroundings: La Grivola.

Claudio sit mihi dux

It didn't take much time for me to decide this summit would come on top of my want list. But there was a little problem. I'm an experienced hiker. I've been on top of different easy 4000ers like Gran Paradiso, Punta Gnifetti, Castor and Pollux. But I'm a rather moderate and unexperienced climber. I don't have the skills and knowledge to bring a trip like La Grivola to a good end on my own. I've had read a lot about this mountain. And the more I did so, the more it was in my mind. I had decided I wanted to spend the night on it. Which meant I had to make the ascent via the north east ridge route, which is even more technical than the normal route over the south eastern slope. In other words, I had to find a capable person who was prepared to lead me up there. Via via I was brought into contact with Claudio Rosset. For him, my lack of experience was obviously no obstacle. Needless to say hearing this was a big relief for me.

Day 1: Gratton bivouac - Trajo Glacier - Balzola bivouac

On the morning of the 13th of July I met with Claudio at 6.30 a.m. at the city centre of Cogne. From there we drove by car to the hamlet of Crétaz (1499 meters above sea level) where the walk to the Gratton bivouac on the Colle di Pousset started. That 4 hour ascent was a typical one for the Gran Paradiso National Park Area, characterized by flocks of izards and impressive ibex. The fact that these fantastic species of alpine wildlife were the only living beings we would encounter in the next two days, is significant for the remote character of the area.
Although we would spend the night in the Balzola bivouac on the ridge, the lower situated Gratton bivouac was an important stopping-place on our way up. We would stay there for the rest of the day. I was told this place was much more comfortable to watch the minutes ticking away than being on the ridge. Later that day I could do nothing but agree.


After hours of relaxation and enjoying the superb surroundings I was glad to hear Claudio giving me the sign to prepare for the final stage of that day. Around 5.00 p.m. we were tied in and ready for the traverse of the Trajo glacier and the ascent to the Balzola bivouac. The traverse went very smooth, however the treacherous character of the glacier would be revealed on our way back. Getting off the glacier turned out to be a little bit tricky. The snow corridor that connects the glacier with the slopes of the ridge was very steep and frequented by rockfall, but in the end the snow had to make place for (unstable) rock. From that point the climb continued for about half an hour until at last the door of the Balzola bivouac turned open showing its charming interior.


Being finally there on the ridge that I had been watching with great respect and admiration during my past stays in the Val d'Aosta gave me a rather ambiguous feeling. Of course it was a great experience standing on that superb ridge with its overwhelming panoramas and the continuous sound of falling rock and ice in the north face as soundtrack. But the view of the ridge ahead in the dusk with the summit covered in upcoming clouds was on the same time threatening in one way and it made me feel a little bit insecure for the journey of the next day. Anyway, since there was nothing on tv and weather seemed to be changing, we decided to go to bed around 8.30 p.m. for a restless night.

Day 2: La Grivola summit

Tuesday 14th of July, 5.00 a.m., a hellish sound that turned out to be Claudio's alarmclock. Not that I was still asleep. During the last part of the night we were waked by the piercing howling of the wind. Under these conditions an ascent wouldn't be possible over the exposed ridge. My companion decided to wait an other hour for the first sunlight and that turned out to be the correct decision. At 6.15 a.m. the wind was gone and that was the sign for us to depart.


The first steps on the rocky ridge were rather uncertain as far as I was concerned. But the steady tread of my fellow and his obvious expertise in this kind of terrain took away this uncomfortable feeling pretty fast. What followed was five hours of pure joy and intense delight. Different towers were climbed, traversed and rappeled. Some of them with the biggest ease, others demanding the utmost efforts. Step by step the ridge had to reveal his secrets. We passed the point where the white crucifix on the summit became visible. Nonetheless I was surprised how demanding the climb had become. This is one of the main reasons why this route is not as popular as one might expect from such a prominent peak, but no doubt this fact contributes to the beauty of La Grivola. Around 10.45 a.m. we reached the point where the north east ridge route fuses with the normal route. Half an hour later the ascent was completed.

It always gives a nice feeling when one reaches a goal he has been striving for for a certain time in life. For me this was a personal victory and standing there on top of La Grivola, quite tired to be honest, overlooking the Val d' Aosta which had given me so much pleasure in the past and knowing that 2000 meters below my girlfriend was anxiously looking forward for my return, I must say a great feeling of satisfaction was overwhelming me (not that I like to see my girlfriend being anxious, but I suppose you understand what I mean).





Anyway, this moment of reflection was soon replaced by the awareness that the job was still not done. The descent goes via the normal route and I didn't expect much problems. But I was wrong. The first part went smooth but thereafter we found it hard to find the ideal track. Two hours later we were still struggling on the rocky slopes. At that time I had to notice I hadn't eaten enough on the way up and now I had to pay for this starters mistake. Unnecessary to tell I was relieved to set foot back on the glacier. Within an hour we would reach the Gratton bivouac again and that's the point where one can say everything is under control. One more anecdote: for those wondering if the Trajo Glacier has a lot of crevasses. There is certainly one and we found it. Somewhere halfway the traverse Claudio disappeared in the melting snow. Thanks to the extended rope and the reflexes of my compagnion this became a fait divers. But it shows very well how dangerous it becomes when one believes prematurely to be in safety. Anyhow, after that the bivouac was reached without further incidents and after a well deserved break the final stage back to the valley was taken. Finally around 6.00 p.m., 12 hours after the departure from the Balzola bivouac, we reached the parking place in Crétaz which meant the end of this journey.

Epilogue

I have written this report for I want to remember this experience as I remember it today. I've tought some of you might be interested in reading. I'm well aware that this journey isn't legandaric nor memorable for most of you. But it definitely was from my point of view. And in the end that's the only thing that really matters.

Images

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